Years ago, a woman in Vietnam emailed complimenting me, I think. She wrote that my food was old fashioned. She also wrote that food in Vietnam has modernized a lot. Her email made me realize that for many Vietnamese refugees, cooking the food of our heritage is a nostalgic act. We cook to recall the past and feel grounded in who we are because at the end of the cooking, we get to enjoy familiar flavors, even if we feel somewhat alien in our adopted country.

My family cooked up a lot of quê hương (hometown) nostalgia while I was growing up, but we also adapted things to establish roots here in America. As I wrote earlier, my mother was on a pâté chaud journey to master homemade puff pastry, a major Viet-Franco achievement for a good home cook like her. The savory pastries were a favorite in Saigon, where we once lived.

If you missed the pâté chaud backstory, this recent post will fill you in!

We were so well fed that we got chubby. Then my mom started looking for ways to eat healthier without compromising the foods we loved.

Her solution? She pivoted to creating mini pâté chaud — diamonds of crisp pastry filled with her aromatic filling. They were portion-controlled 2-biters that didn’t get you into trouble, unless you ate too many. Instead of enjoying them as a regular breakfast item, our family served them up as a nosh with drinks. We enjoyed them at Christmas and other indulgent celebrations. She trotted them out of the freezer to impress guests at parties.

I’ve stuck with the minis over the years because it’s a sane and healthy-ish way to enjoy pâté chaud. There’s less pastry and more filling and it’s super easy and fast to prep.

Many Vietnamese cooks abroad still make the traditional round shape but I’ve also spotted squares and half circles too. Modern pâté chaud may contain the traditional pork filling or feature beef or chicken. I’ve seen vegetarian pâté chaud too.

Given all those iterations, I created three recipes for you to play with pâté chaud. Below you’ll find the following:

• A mini pâté chaud recipe plus instructions for making different shapes

• Two filling recipes to craft meaty or vegetarian (or vegan) pastries

• Process shots plus a how-to video to guide your journey

• FAQ for buying, making, and working with puff pastry

• Freezing and reheating tips

The pastries are fun to make and even more fun to eat. My brother in law could hardly tell the difference between the vegetarian and meat ones!

I’m hoping that at the end of all this, you’ll be confidently and joyously baking up a platter of something like this:

Nostalgia cooking can be good because cooking up memories can lead to adaptations and innovations. Let’s make pâté chaud!

Read more

Happy New Year and Welcome Back!

I’m freshly back from Australia, where I celebrated my cousin’s wedding, spent time with family in Melbourne, escaped to Tasmania, and rang in the New Year in Sydney. Every time I visit, I somehow fall a little more in love with the country and the people. It’s becoming a pattern. A very pleasant pattern.

My biggest folly this trip? Packing. I confidently assumed “summer in Australia” meant I could live exclusively in shorts and breezy shirts. The weather had other plans. It turned out to be cooler than expected, which meant I spent part of the trip mildly underdressed and dramatically layering whatever warmer pieces I could find, looking like I had packed for three different climates and committed to none.

At the risk of sounding delightfully unadventurous, I don’t have any extreme, cinematic goals for 2026. I’m not climbing Everest. I’m not jumping out of planes. My ambitions are gentler, but just as heartfelt: I’d love to finally take a bonsai class, start a personal photography project I’ve been putting off, get better at my Lagree Reformer workouts (which I fell in love with last year), read more books, and spend a little less time staring into the glowing rectangle in my hand pretending it’s “research.”

Small shifts, soft goals, and hopefully fewer packing mistakes.

On a much more sobering note, we lost the incredible and deeply generous Chef Elle Simone Scott this week. I had the privilege of meeting Elle during my very first days at America’s Test Kitchen, and even in that brief window, her presence left a lasting imprint on me.

Elle was the first Black woman to join the ATK show, and for so many people, she was not just a familiar face on television, but a symbol of possibility, belonging, and excellence. When I met her, she greeted me with an ease and warmth that immediately put me at home. She was open, encouraging, and genuinely invested in helping newer voices find their footing, their confidence, and their place.

In a kitchen—and an industry—that can often feel intimidating, Elle led with kindness. She made space. She lifted people up. And she did it all while carrying her own quiet strength. She will be deeply missed, and her impact will live on in the many people she encouraged, inspired, and welcomed in.

Chorizo and White Bean Soup

Inspired by Goan and Iberian flavors, this is the kind of soup that smells like you’ve been cooking all day, even though you absolutely have not. Smoky chorizo releases fat-soluble flavor compounds into the pot, creamy white beans thicken the broth naturally with their starches, and a final hit of greens and acid wakes everything back up so it doesn’t taste like winter fatigue in a bowl.

In other words, it’s comfort food engineered for maximum flavor efficiency.

You can find the full recipe over at America’s Test Kitchen — and I highly recommend putting it into heavy weeknight rotation while pretending you planned it days in advance.

Make this Soup