I never leave the grocery store without a tub of plain yogurt: It’s a key ingredient in many dips, spreads, and baking recipes, and when topped with granola and fresh fruit, makes for an easy breakfast or snack. If you’ve ever stood in front of the wall of yogurt at a grocery store, then you’ll know there are many, many options. The question is: Which plain yogurt is worth buying?

To find the cream of the yogurt crop, our editors sampled 10 different plain whole-milk yogurts you’re likely to find at your local supermarket. (If you notice 11 in the photo below, that's because we cut one of the yogurts we tasted from our rankings because it turned out to be a strained yogurt.) We placed each in unmarked bowls, then sampled them in random order without knowing which yogurt was which. After tasting our way through 10 bowls of plain yogurt, we tabulated the results and crowned an overall winner we’d be happy to enjoy with granola or incorporate into our favorite dips and desserts. We also found an admirable runner up for those who prefer a yogurt made from grass-fed milk.

The Criteria

There are different kinds of yogurt, including strained varieties such as Greek yogurt, Icelandic skyr, and Middle Eastern labneh. For this taste test, we focused on plain, unstrained, whole-milk yogurt. Plain yogurt should be creamy, thick, and smooth without being overly set with thickeners such as pectin or stabilizers. It should be pleasantly tangy, but not sour. It should have the subtle, natural sweetness of milk, but not taste sweetened.

Overall Winner

The Best Nationally Available Plain Yogurt: Dannon Plain Whole Milk Yogurt

Though this yogurt is not quite as tangy as others we tasted, our editors enjoyed its mild tartness and loved its thick, creamy texture.  “Good body,” our associate visuals director, Amanda, noted. Our senior social media editor, Kelli, thought it was “all around good,” while both our editorial director, Daniel, and associate editorial director, Megan, described it as pleasantly smooth. “Creamy, mild, tasty,” Megan wrote. “I like it!”

While some overly sour yogurts may not be great in dips and desserts, this yogurt’s mildness makes it a versatile ingredient that can be used in myriad ways, be it savory or sweet. Use it to prepare frozen yogurt, incorporate it into baked goods, marinate chicken thighs, or just eat it on its own.

Runner Up

The Best Grass-Fed Plain Yogurt: Alexandre Family Farm 100% Grass-Fed A2/A2 Organic Plain Yogurt

“Good milk flavor, has that real mammalian funk,” Daniel wrote. “This is a compliment!” Amanda had lukewarm feelings about the “earthy” flavors of the yogurt, but Megan—who adores plain yogurt and says she eats it every single day—thought it was “extremely mild and cream-forward.” Though this yogurt was slightly thinner than some of the brands we sampled, it is still creamy and has good body. Many dairy cows are fed a total mixed ratio diet, a nutritionally-balanced blend of grains and proteins, resulting in sweet, malty milk. Dairy from grass-fed cows, however, is often described as having a more complex vegetal or barnyard-like flavor. While Daniel, Megan, and I all enjoyed the flavor of this yogurt, Kelli and Amanda did not. Grass-fed dairy may be an acquired taste, but if you want a slightly funky, earthy yogurt, you may enjoy this one.

The Contenders

• 365 Organic Plain Whole Milk Yogurt
• Alexandre Family Farm 100% Grass-Fed A2/A2 Organic Plain Yogurt
• Brown Cow Plain Yogurt
• Dannon Plain Whole Milk Yogurt
• Family Farmstead Plain Whole Milk Yogurt
• Nature’s Promise Organic Whole Milk Yogurt
• Seven Stars Farm Organic Yogurt Plain
• Stonyfield Organic Whole Milk Plain
• Trader Joe's European-Style Organic Plain Whole Milk Yogurt
• Trader Joe's Organic Plain Whole Milk Yogurt
  

In Conclusion

Our editors enjoyed the majority of the plain yogurts we sampled. However, our testers had very different yogurt preferences: While some preferred mild and subtly sweet yogurts, others preferred dairy with more complexity, like those of the grass-fed kind. Most of the yogurts we sampled have just two ingredients: pasteurized milk and live cultures. Some yogurts, however, contain pectin, an ingredient that’s often used to thicken yogurt. In our tests, our editors preferred yogurts that had been naturally thickened during the fermentation process: When bacterial cultures convert the milk’s lactose sugars into lactic acids, it thickens and sours it simultaneously. Both our winners contain just pasteurized milk and live cultures, have just the right amount of tang, and are smooth and creamy. 

Our Testing Methodology

All taste tests are conducted with brands completely hidden and without discussion. Tasters taste samples in random order. For example, taster A may taste sample one first, while taster B will taste sample six first. This is to prevent palate fatigue from unfairly giving any one sample an advantage. Tasters are asked to fill out tasting sheets ranking the samples for various criteria. All data is tabulated and results are calculated with no editorial input in order to give us the most impartial representation possible.

A long career in the food service industry has acquainted me with all kinds of ways to sharpen knives. As a young culinary student, I would run my knives through a pull-through sharpener. When I began to look for an even better edge, I brought my knife to Sur La Table to take advantage of its in-house sharpening services. Once I started working in serious kitchens, older cooks side-eyed this practice. They explained that mechanical grindstones and inexperienced retail assistants can remove too much metal from your knife when sharpening, dramatically shortening its life. Serious pros use whetstones to sharpen their knives, and eventually, I only wanted to use them on my precious and expensive work tools. That said, while whetstones are effective, they're time-consuming and come with learning curves.

Recently, I read about a new trend in knife sharpening: rolling sharpeners. These, like the Horl 3 Cruise I tested, couple magnetic, angled blocks with rolling, textured cylinders. Your knife snaps onto the block to be held at just the right angle (either 15 or 20 degrees) while the cylinder rolls along the sharp edge to sharpen. After finishing one side, you flip the knife to do the other. Pretty simple, right? I tested a popular rolling knife sharpener to find out.

The Tests

• Stainless Steel Knife Test: To start, I chose one of my older knives to experiment with the Horl 3. For me, it’s the Zwilling Bob Kramer Damascus. It’s made of stainless steel and takes a long time to resharpen. I pulled it out, dusted it off, and marked the edge with a Sharpie to see how much the Horl would take off. I put it to the Edge-on-Up Professional Edge Tester to test its existing sharpness, then put in some serious work on the Horl before re-testing its sharpness.
• Odd-Size Knife Test: Next, I wanted to see if the Horl could work for an irregularly shaped knife like a meat cleaver. Again, I used the edge tester, sharpened the cleaver, and then tested its edge again.
• Carbon Steel Knife Test: Finally, I grabbed a softer carbon steel knife to see how the Horl could perform on a different material. I used the edge tester before and after to determine the results.

What We Learned

Rolling Sharpeners Leave the Training Wheels On

People have used whetstones to sharpen knives for centuries, and the design hasn’t changed much. You hold your knife at an angle and run it across a textured stone to remove some material and refine the edge to a point. Repeat on the other side, and you get a sharp edge. Electric sharpeners were invented to save time and decrease the amount of skill needed to complete this task: Rotating textured wheels or belts spin around an angled valley the user drags the blade of the knife through.

Rolling sharpeners combine elements of both methods. Instead of using an angle guide or relying on feel, the rolling sharpener has a magnetized block that snaps onto your knife to hold it edge-side-up at the proper angle. A coarse, textured cylinder rolls next to the blade and along its edge to refine it. In theory, this process reduces the amount of skill needed to maintain the proper angle while sharpening and doesn’t take off as much material as an electric or pull-through sharpener.

The Rolling Sharpener Sharpened Well—But With Limitations

After about 10 minutes of sharpening my Kramer blade (roughly 100 passes on each side of the blade), the Horl made significant progress. To start, this knife registered at 1044 on the edge tester. The manual for the tester recommends a professional regrind for any blade scoring above 1200. After using the Horl, I was able to get the sharpness down to 600, or a “moderately rolled edge.” Because the Kramer has chips along the blade, I would need to continue far beyond just getting the edge sharp to get a completely straight blade. Ordinarily, I could use a whetstone with a coarser grit to make shorter work of this process. The Horl only comes with one grit grade plus another side for honing. Whetstones come in a wide variety of grits and textures designed to pair with whatever results you are looking for. Essentially, trying to remove chips from a stainless steel knife using the Horl is akin to chopping down a tree with a serrated knife. Sure, it can do it…eventually. But you could make more progress with a better tool.

That being said, I was able to finally remove the chips with enough elbow grease and time. By the end, I had managed to get the sharpness to 239, as sharp as a double-edged razor blade and most high-end cutlery out of the box. Consider me a happy camper, as it can cost as much as $40 to get it repaired by a professional just once and the Horl can be used again and again.

Save Your Odd-Size Cutlery For A Whetstone

While you can sharpen almost any kind of knife on a whetstone, the Horl is limited by the shape and size of the rolling component. A larger cleaver is too wide to make contact with the textured surface of the sharpener without requiring you to jury-rig some kind of elevated surface on one side. Paring knives were a non-issue and carbon steel knives with typical bevels (double, 15 or 20 degrees) sharpened just fine. 

The Verdict

If you want to be a bit more serious about the long-term care of your knives but are too intimidated to delve into mastering a whetstone, the Horl (and rolling sharpeners like it) offers a clever solution. Understand that this kind of sharpener will never be able to do what a full assortment of whetstones can, but maybe that’s not what you want anyway. Quick, effective sharpening will give you a much more enjoyable user experience when slicing and cutting, and that’s what the Horl delivers.

The Pros

I enjoyed using the Horl 3 Cruise and will admit that it's easier than a whetstone. The Horl does not need to be soaked before use and makes no mess. It’s compact and portable. While it’s not quite as intuitive as a pull-through sharpener, I was still able to get my non-culinary sister to sharpen her dull knives to a satisfactory edge without a lengthy instruction period. Maintaining the correct angle is virtually foolproof with the heavy-duty magnet, which did not release the knife during sharpening at all no matter how much pressure I exerted.

The Cons

The Horl is not as versatile as a set of whetstones would be. It only has one type of grit coarseness and two angle settings, though Horl is releasing a model later this year with more options and exchangeable grinding disks. With a whetstone, the choices for angle are essentially limitless and you are free to customize your edge the way you want. That is still going to be the best possible option for knife nerds.

Key Specs

• Grinding material: Diamond
• Weight: 1 pound
• Grinding angles: 15 and 20 degrees

Why We're the Experts

• Taylor Murray has been working in food and food media for over 10 years, including at award-winning restaurants. 
• She has tested numerous items for Serious Eats, including tagines and deep-dish pizza pans.
• For this review, Taylor sharpened a variety of knives using the Horl 3 Cruise. She tested the edge before and after sharpening using a professional edge tester.
  

Pistachio cream has been my love language for at least the past year now, ever since the Dubai chocolate bar first graced my feed. To appreciate this, you do not necessarily need to be familiar with the Dubai chocolate bar, but some backstory does help. A few years ago, Sarah Hamouda, the founder of Fix Dessert Chocolatier in Dubai, created a new confection—a mixture of pistachio cream and toasted kataifi (very fine strands of pastry formed by drizzling a batter onto a cooking surface) encased in a luxurious bar of dark chocolate. It became a sensation after an ASMR-style TikTok video of the dessert went viral and inspired content creators worldwide to make their own versions. Today, you can even buy DIY kits as well as copycat Dubai chocolate bars for an exorbitant price at corner stores in New York City. 

The trend also sparked countless riffs online, leading to a surge in interest in pistachio cream, and it's well on its way to becoming the new Nutella. I've shared my favorite ways to use it (I've recently been putting it in a luscious, white hot chocolate), and our Birmingham-based team has even turned it into a tart. I've been calling my latest (and probably not last) riff Dubai chocolate triangles. They're a phyllo-wrapped pastries with a filling of pistachio cream, tahini, pistachios, and toasted kataifi, baked until golden, dipped in chocolate, and finished with a sprinkle of roasted pistachios.

For a Better Crunch, Use Dried Kataifi 

While similar to phyllo dough, kataifi is not exactly the same. Kataifi is made from a liquid batter that's drizzled and cooked into very thin strands similar to vermicelli noodles. Since the Dubai chocolate bar trend began, it has become readily available online in dried form. It's more challenging to find in stores; you'll likely need to stop at a Middle Eastern grocery store, where you are more likely to find it frozen rather than dried. The dried version is a little easier to work with, and I noticed it gets crispier than the frozen kataifi, which is a good thing in this context. Whether you're buying it dried or frozen, kataifi comes in reasonably large quantities, so use the rest to make kanafeh or toast some up in butter and sprinkle it on your salads, pasta, or eggs.

Work Quickly to Avoid Cracked Phyllo 

Phyllo is easy to find in most grocery stores, usually right next to the frozen puff pastry. It is, however, a little challenging to work with because it tends to dry out very quickly once unfolded and exposed to air. Covering it with a towel can help keep it moist, but cooks often debate whether you should use a dry or damp towel to do this.

A damp towel traps moisture better but may cause your phyllo sheets to stick together, while a dry one may not retain enough moisture to prevent them from cracking. I've tried it both ways and choose to use a damp towel—not a sopping wet towel, but one with the slightest hint of moisture. If your towel is too wet, you may well end up with stuck-together sheets. Fortunately, most boxes of phyllo have 40 sheets, so you will still have more than enough even if there are a few setbacks. 

Unless you are a phyllo expert, there will be some cracks and breakage along the way, but fret not: Little cracks and tears will hardly be noticeable in your final product, and you'll have enough sheets in the package to keep going even if some crack beyond repair. The best move is to make a pile of discards and toast them up later; toasted shards of phyllo are very tasty, and like the kataifi, they make a nice topping for plenty of other dishes.  

Get Pre-Roasted, Shelled Pistachios 

Yes, you can shell and toast your own nuts, but not only is that a lot of work, but there's also a fine line between perfectly roasted and burnt. The shelled and roasted pistachios save you time while delivering a more consistently roasted result. As a bonus, pre-toasted pistachios generally have a brighter green color, which makes your triangles more visually appealing. It's not always easy to find roasted and unsalted pistachios, so if you're using salted pistachios, omit the salt from the recipe.

Taste Your Pistachio Cream

I can't stress enough, please taste your pistachio cream before using it for this or any recipe. Many different brands are available now, and while most of them are tasty, they can vary a lot in flavor and sweetness. While I love Pistacchiosa, for example, it is saltier than most. Other brands are super sweet.

The recipe below can't account for such a wide range of pistachio products on the market, so please taste and adjust accordingly! Omit the salt if your pistachio cream tastes salty, and consider using an even more bittersweet chocolate if your pistachio cream is extremely sweet to balance it out.

For a Shinier Ganache, Add Corn Syrup

While it's optional in this recipe, pastry chefs love using corn syrup for the glossy finish it gives chocolate. It also helps keep the ganache fluid, making it easier to dip your triangles and giving you a little extra time to sprinkle on the pistachios before the chocolate sets. Its benefits are mostly aesthetic, though, so if you don't bake often and don't have corn syrup on hand, feel free to skip it—your triangles will still be beautiful.

If Your Chocolate Breaks, Just Add Cream

Tempering chocolate is an art; a few degrees can be the difference between chocolate glory and disaster. When I was developing this recipe, our senior editor and former restaurant pastry chef, Genevieve, shared a trick with me: As you're melting the chocolate, add more cream and keep stirring if it starts to seize or look grainy. There needs to be enough liquid to coat the chocolate's cocoa particles, but, as she explains in her fabulous water ganache recipe, the darker the chocolate, the more cocoa particles, and the more liquid you'll need to keep it fluid.

For the Filling: In a small skillet, melt butter over medium heat until foamy, about 2 minutes. Add kataifi pastry and cook, stirring often and breaking up clumps with a wooden spoon, until browned, about 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl and let rest at room temperature until cooled, about 15 minutes

Add pistachios to kataifi bowl along with pistachio cream, tahini, and salt. Using a flexible spatula, gently fold to combine; set aside.

To Assemble and Cook: Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350°F (175°C). Line a 13- by 18-inch rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper; set aside. Unroll the phyllo sheets and, using a sharp knife or pizza wheel, cut dough into 6- by 11-inch strips. Cover phyllo strips with a lightly damp kitchen towel until ready to use to prevent them from drying out.

Place one phyllo strip on a clean work surface with the short side facing you. Brush entire strip with melted butter. Fold it in half lengthwise like a book, bringing the left edge to meet the right edge, to create a strip that is 3 by 11 inches. Brush again with butter. Place a heaping tablespoon of filling (about 20g) about 1 inch from the bottom of the strip towards the right side. Fold the left bottom corner of the phyllo strip over filling to tightly enclose and form a triangle. Continue folding the triangle, flipping right and then left until you reach the end of the strip. Use a sharp knife or kitchen scissors to trim any excess phyllo pastry.

Place folded triangle seam-side down on prepared baking sheet and cover loosely with another damp kitchen towel until ready to bake. Repeat with remaining phyllo strips and filling, arranging each pastry on the baking sheet about 1 inch apart.

Bake, rotating baking sheet front to back halfway through, until lightly golden and crisp, 18 to 20 minutes. Let the triangles cool completely.

For the Ganache: Place chocolate in a medium heatproof measuring cup or mug. In a small saucepan, stir together heavy cream and corn syrup, if using, and bring to a simmer over medium heat, about 4 minutes. Pour over chocolate and let stand until chocolate softens, about 1 minute, then stir until smooth. Cool chocolate mixture until warm but still pourable (100 to 105ºF; 38 to 40ºC), about 3 minutes.

Holding triangles by one corner, carefully dip half the pastry in chocolate to coat, letting any excess chocolate drip back into the cup before returning pastry to baking sheet. Sprinkle chocolate with chopped pistachios before it sets.

Repeat with remaining triangles. Refrigerate until set, about 10 minutes.

Special Equipment

Sharp knife, pizza wheel, or kitchen scissors, 9-by-13-inch rimmed baking sheet, ruler, instant-read thermometer

Notes

You can easily find dried kataifi online and frozen kataifi at many Mediterranean and Middle Eastern markets, often in the frozen pastry aisle.

Salads follow food trend cycles like nearly every other food category. Do you remember that there was a time before Americans regularly ate kale salads? Now they're everywhere. Today, if I were to make a spreadsheet of the best restaurant salads (yes, I have been known to make this sort of spreadsheet), many would have an ingredient more typically associated with fried foods and casseroles: breadcrumbs. And this is a trend I'm definitely on board with.

My all-time favorite salad is a Caesar salad, yet I can't even recall the last time I saw a crouton on a Caesar at a New York City restaurant. Where have all the croutons gone? Apparently, they've gone into the food processor and come out as delightfully crunchy breadcrumbs. In Brooklyn, where I live, this trend is just as common at Michelin-starred restaurants like Lilia as it is at wine bars like The Fly—one of my favorites—or even my local sit-down pizzeria, Speedy Romeo. And honestly, it’s genius.

How many dull salad knives have I taken to unyielding, brittle croutons that have crumbled or slipped right off my plate and onto the floor? Using breadcrumbs instead of croutons solves that problem. Plus, freshly toasted breadcrumbs add another layer of flavor and texture to every bite without distracting from the star of the salad—the lettuce and/or vegetables. Many restaurants have opted to do away with croutons entirely, so why shouldn't you do the same at home? Instead of saving your day-old bread or buying fresh bread to make homemade croutons, use the breadcrumbs you probably already have in your pantry.

The Best Breadcrumbs For Salad Are the Ones You Have

Which breadcrumbs should you use to spruce up your salad? Any kind! As long as you toast them in butter or oil. Yes, you can still opt to make the breadcrumbs yourself by putting hearty, stale bread in a food processor as Kenji does in his spring vegetable salad, but for an even quicker salad topper, use store-bought plain breadcrumbs and season them at home. These Caesar breadcrumbs and the pickle juice–scented breadcrumbs from our version of the TikTok-famous fried pickle dip, are two flavorful options. But if you've already gone out of your way to make a homemade Caesar dressing for a classic Caesar salad, don't mess with perfection—plain toasted panko breadcrumbs will do just fine. Simply combine a tablespoon of butter or oil with a quarter cup of breadcrumbs and toast in a pan over low heat until golden brown, then season with salt and pepper. 

The next time you're at the grocery store to buy all your salad components, re-up your breadcrumbs supply. This easy ingredient swap will jazz up your home salads and open a world of crunchy possibilities.

When I was growing up in Cincinnati, I ate goetta pretty often, but I had no idea how the city’s signature sausage was made. I considered goetta processed, like canned hash or lunchmeat. In my mind, it came from manufacturing facilities where pork-and-oat sludge flowed from tubes into molds and plastic wrappers, or butcher shops where old men with meaty forearms ground hearts and livers into stainless steel stockpots.

But plenty of Cincinnatians make it in their home kitchens. “If you just follow the directions on the back of the bag [of pinhead oats], it’s very simple,” says Pat Haders, a native of the city’s heavily German and goetta-loving West Side. She’s been doing it for years.

For home cooks like Pat, the recipe on bags of Dorsel’s pinhead oats, better known as steel-cut oats, is to goetta what the Toll House recipe is to chocolate chip cookies. It yields three or four hearty loaves—enough to freeze or share with friends and family. (Pat doubles it.)

She’s right: There isn’t much to goetta. It doesn’t require any special machinery or a secret family recipe. But it takes time, and that’s why you don’t make just one pan. It wouldn’t be practical, and goetta is a practical dish. At least, it started that way.

Like Pennsylvania scrapple and North Carolina livermush, goetta descends from a family of German grützwursts, or “grain sausages,” made to stretch meat scraps and offal with inexpensive starches. Goetta is called a sausage, but it’s really more of a meatloaf, made by cooking meat(s), oats, and spices into a thick porridge, which then cools into a sliceable solid.

Historically, the meat in a grützwurst—in Germany or the New World—was whatever was available. In 19th century Cincinnati, when the city earned the nickname “Porkopolis” for its meat processing plants, that was pork. Not the popular parts, either. Those were sold on their own. As in Germany, butchers used the off-cuts to make grützwurst.

Goetta, like nearly everything else, has been domesticated. Today, some butcher shops in the Cincinnati metro advertise that they only use pork shoulder, as a comfort to the squeamish. That includes Bill Finke and Sons, a butcher shop just across the river from Ohio in Fort Wright, Kentucky, that claims to have invented the sausage. Others are proud to continue an offal tradition. Glier’s, the Covington, Kentucky-based, industrial-sized operation that supplies local supermarkets, adds texture and flavor to their recipe with pork skins and hearts.

How to Make Goetta at Home

The goetta that most home cooks make today is even simpler. Cincinnati’s Porkopolis days are in the distant past, and the majority of modern recipes, including the one on the Dorsel’s bag, call for pre-ground pork (and often supplemental beef). My recipe below is closer to goetta’s roots, paying tribute to the dish’s resourceful origins. I also improve the loaf's flavor and consistency through some extra effort that’s almost entirely hands-off.

Instead of using pre-ground meat, I start with a hunk of bone-in pork shoulder. It gives the final product deeper flavor and a rich, gelatinous texture. There’s no store-bought stock here. The oats cook in the pork shoulder’s broth, bringing the dish together in a way that feels heartier and more satisfying than the shortcut versions. I won’t send you out for pork hearts, livers, or skin, but you could easily add them to the mix if you'd like. You could also substitute beef short rib or shank for half of the pork.

The seasonings are simple and relatively traditional. That includes MSG, used at both Finke’s and Glier’s. With black pepper and sage, it helps keep goetta on the meaty, savory side of the pork-and-oatmeal line. I’m calling it optional, but I highly recommend it.

For the easiest, lowest maintenance simmer possible, I cook my goetta in the slow, steady heat of the oven, taking inspiration from a popular slow-cooker method. All you have to do is stir often enough to prevent sticking or excessive browning. 

A warning: The next morning, when you turn your goetta out of the pan, it will be a shade of gray that communicates “loaf,” in the processed, industrial sense. It looks like what it is—an oatmeal-and-pork brick. Unappetizing? Don’t worry: We’ll fix it in post.

Crisped slowly in a skillet, the pork and oats caramelize to a crunchy brown finish. The porridge-like center remains soft and creamy. It eats like a breakfast-meat croquette. The basic, affordable ingredients transform into something greater than the sum of their parts through the alchemy of a hot oven and a medium-hot skillet. 

You can eat goetta like any other breakfast meat, alongside eggs and toast or on a goetta-egg-and-cheese sandwich. Or you can get more creative, layering slices on pizza, crumbling it into macaroni and cheese, and heaping it over nachos. Use it anywhere you’d use sausage, for extra flavor and crispy texture. 

“Goetta is time-consuming,” Pat Haders says, “but it’s yummy.” And if you’re investing the time, you might as well make a lot. Like the famous Dorsel’s recipe, this recipe yields three pans—enough to share with friends and family or to save in the freezer for a time when you don’t have five hours (plus an overnight rest) to invest in breakfast. Making goetta in bulk is part of the Cincinnati tradition, dating back to a time when low-and-slow cooking was the best way to turn a cauldron of leftover pork parts into something delicious.

Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat the oven to 350℉ (175℃). In a large pot or Dutch oven, add pork, onion, celery, and bay leaves and cover with 10 cups (2.37 L) of water. Bring to a boil on the stovetop over high heat, then cover pot, transfer to oven, and cook until pork is falling off the bone, 2 1/2 to 3 hours.

Using a spider skimmer or large slotted spoon and tongs, transfer pork, onion, and celery to a large bowl. Discard bay leaves. Let meat cool slightly. Reserve cooking liquid, adding water, if necessary, to total 8 cups. (Discard or reserve any excess.) Using 2 forks, roughly shred meat, discarding any large pieces of fat or gristle. Then, using a food processor or meat grinder, grind pork, onion, and celery into small pieces.

Return meat mixture to reserved cooking liquid in pot. Stir in oats, salt, pepper, dried ground sage, and MSG, if using, and bring to a boil over high heat. Transfer to oven and cook, uncovered, stirring to prevent sticking and burning every 30 minutes for the first hour, then every 15 minutes for the second hour, until mixture becomes a thick paste and stirring takes some effort, about 2 hours total.

Line three 9- by 5-inch or 8 1/2- by 4 1/2 -inch loaf pans with parchment paper, or lightly grease them. Fill each pan with goetta mixture (about 4 cups per pan), pressing it down as firmly as possible to remove any air pockets. Use a spatula to smooth the top.

Let filled pan cool to room temperature, 1 to 2 hours, then cover with an airtight lid or plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 10 hours to allow goetta to set completely.

To pan-fry and serve, run a knife around edges of pan to loosen the meatloaf, then invert and remove goetta from loaf pan and cut into 1/2-inch thick slices. In a large skillet, add 1 tablespoon oil or another fat (try bacon fat, if you have it) and heat over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add desired number of goetta slices, lower heat to medium, press lightly with a spatula, and cook without moving, until browned and crisped on one side, 7 to 10 minutes. For the crispiest possible goetta, drizzle a little more oil on top, then flip and continue to cook until browned on the second side, 5 to 7 minutes (The goetta slices will be delicate. Handle them carefully!) Serve.

Special Equipment

Large pot or Dutch oven, food processor or meat grinder, parchment paper, three 9- by 5-inch or 8 1/2- by 4 1/2 -inch loaf pans (disposable pans are OK), large skillet

Notes

2 pounds boneless pork shoulder with 1 ham hock may be substituted for the 3 pounds bone-in pork shoulder.

Make-Ahead and Storage

Goetta can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 days or frozen for up to 6 months. For easier thawing, slice the goetta before freezing, separating the slices with wax paper and wrapping them tightly with plastic wrap. If frozen, thaw completely in the refrigerator before cooking.

Over the years, Lodge cast iron has edged out the cookware competition to win top spots in our rankings of Dutch ovens, grill pans, bread ovens, and more. Lodge is like a trustworthy friend who’s been around forever and can fry the perfect crispy egg without trouble. It also helps that the brand’s prices are quite affordable, with our favorite Lodge cast iron skillet perennially hovering at just $17. We found plenty of other great Lodge pieces on sale—all for under $50— including this dual-handled skillet and a 2-in-1 Dutch oven.

Lodge 10.25-Inch Cast Iron Pre-Seasoned Skillet

It releases eggs as if it were nonstick, churns out uniformly baked cornbread, and costs only $17. What more could you ask for? This Lodge cast iron skillet has been a favorite for years, thanks to its even heating and durability. 

Lodge Rectangular Cast Iron Griddle

For breakfast enthusiasts and panini aficionados, this writer-loved cast iron griddle delivers incredible searing power, and then some. Simply flip it to achieve impressive grill marks on burger patties and kebabs. Grab it for 41% off.

Lodge 5-Quart Cast Iron Double Dutch Oven

We tested this clever 2-in-1 Dutch oven as a bread oven and were mightily impressed. For a budget pick, it produces crusty loaves of bread with plenty of oven spring. The lid also doubles as a skillet for frying eggs or searing cauliflower.

Lodge 10.5-Inch Cast Iron Square Grill Pan

While our favorite Lodge Chef Collection grill pan is no longer available, this similar model from the brand offers the same cast iron build and durability. It also comes pre-seasoned and has a deep grilling surface to ensure crispy textures.

Lodge Dual Assist 12-Inch Cast Iron Skillet

While some cast iron is too heavy to move around, this editor-loved dual-handled skillet is plenty easy to lift and clean. It sears just like any other Lodge cast iron cookware, minus the wrist workout.

Lodge 10.5-Inch Cast Iron Round Griddle

This round $20 griddle is great for making flour tortillas, garlic naan, or crepes Suzette. The shorter sides allow you to flip crepes and tortillas smoothly—no tearing!

6.25-Inch Cast Iron Burger Press

While Lodge’s cast iron grill press aced our searing tests, we weren’t the biggest fans of the handle’s screw holes that attracted food and grease while cooking. However, this Lodge burger press is made from a single piece of cast iron, solving all our gunky woes from the other model. Plus, it’s only $15.

Why We’re the Experts

• An Uong is a writer for Serious Eats.
• An has been testing kitchen gear for Serious Eats for over two years.
• She’s a self-professed Lodge cookware nerd with an ever-growing collection of cast iron skillets.
  

Receiving a gift basket in the mail is one of life’s finer pleasures—especially if that gift box includes cookies or your favorite condiment. But choosing a shippable food gift can feel like an arduous task, too. Will your recipients enjoy their gifts? Will what you see on the website be what you expected? I tested 13 mail-order gift baskets to find out which few are worth the price and truly create a memorable and enjoyable gift for your friends and loved ones. My findings surprised me a bit, especially as someone who has been making and shipping homemade food gifts for two decades. 

The Winners, at a Glance

Zingerman’s The Weekender truly lived up to its name: It includes a curated mix of cheese, beef sticks, bread, and baked goods shipped in a vibrant and playful box. It felt like an invitation to have a celebratory weekend—even if you have nothing to celebrate. This would make a joyful gift for a weekend getaway or respite to new parents who need a break from casseroles. 

This gift basket was so loaded with award-winning cheeses that it busted a little in shipping! But don’t worry, no wedge or wheel was harmed. There are generously sized cheeses in this box, as well as crackers and candied nuts. With some fresh fruit and vegetables, this is enough cheese to make two crowd-pleasing cheese plates or four smaller snack plates. 

This chocolate gift basket from LA Burdick was the only option to elicit actual squeals of delight. While the fresh cookies and chocolate mice and penguins went quickly, the gorgeous one-pound box of high-end chocolates seemed never-ending (in the best way!). This gift box also had the prettiest packaging of all the boxes I tried. 

I know you’re thinking: “Really? A box of dried fruit?” And, really, I was too, but Yun Hai has curated a unique experience with its selection of dried fruit in a show-stopping package. I shared the dried fruits with friends on a hiking picnic and they are still talking about the golden pineapple, Irwin mango, wax apple, green mango, and pearl guava weeks later. This is also one of the most affordable gift boxes I tested, meaning I will absolutely be buying it again as a gift—and for myself. 

The Tests

• Packaging Inspection Test: I examined each shipping box for damage. For perishable items, I also inspected cool components such as ice packs, cooler bags, or styrofoam coolers. 
• Opening Test: I opened each of the gift boxes. Before arrival, I did my best not to read up on the package's contents so I could experience the surprise and delight of each gift box's opening experience. I noted if any instructions or information about the contents was included, too. 
• Use and Enjoyment Tests: I opened each package, tasting, cooking, and preparing the contents per the box's info sheets. I also noted how much of each package was able to be used in a given timeframe. 

What We Learned

A Gift Box Should Have a Gift Box 

It may seem obvious to some, but this was something I hadn’t noticed before having 13 gift boxes shipped to my house over two weeks. Gift boxes whose contents were shipped in generic boxes or shipped in a branded box without any gift packaging (e.g., crinkle paper,  wood shavings, or an info card on the boxes’ contents) felt like a routine shipment from Amazon, not a special or thoughtful experience. Novelty gift boxes add to the perceived value of the boxes' contents, too. All of my favorite boxes included specialty boxes, branded printouts, and additional shipping materials. External shipping boxes were slightly annoying to deal with after receiving the boxes, but the few gift boxes that shipped without a protective box were the few to arrive damaged.

Novelty Added to a Gift Box’s Enjoyment 

Gift boxes with everyday items, like the Williams Sonoma Pantry Gift Crate, weren’t nearly as exciting to open as something like the Yun Hai Dried Fruit Gift Set, simply because dried fruit is unexpected. Similarly, packages like Zingerman's Weekender or Vermont Wagyu’s Breakfast Box that created an experience—like a fabulous breakfast spread or weekend lunch—were also more joy-inducing and memorable to open.

The Number of Items in a Box Increases Its Perceived Value 

While the dollar value of these 13 gift boxes ranged from over $200 to under $60, the number of items included in the package added to the perceived value of the gift. For example, the Catskill Provisions Negroni Kit only contained two bottles of liquor, but because it included thoughtful info and recipe cards, it felt worth its price tag of $47. Conversely, the $78 price of the Fishwife starter pack has seven tins of fish but no fancy packaging, making it seem “expensive” comparatively. 

The Criteria: What to Look for in a Food Gift Basket

When shopping for gift baskets, look for curated experiences that include unique items. Ask yourself: Could I make this with a visit to the grocery store? If the answer is no, that’s a good benchmark for a giftable box. Read the description carefully, and note if the items are shipped in a shipping box and if the package includes information and instructions. Special gift boxes, recipe cards, and even thoughtful care cards add to the perceived value.  I also preferred gift baskets that contained a good variety and number of items.

Our Favorite Food Gift Baskets 

What we liked: This gift box has a little something for everyone—savory snacks like freshly baked bread, a hunk of rich cheddar, a big-as-your-hand ginger cookie, and an outrageously delicious brownie. The recipient can enjoy these items individually or use them together for a weekend of meals and treats. 

What we didn’t like: The bread loaf had special reheating instructions that kept me from diving right in. This gift box also had a lot of packaging, including the shipping box and the individually wrapped treats. 

Key Specs

• Shipping packaging: External shipping box with a branded gift box and newsletter 
• What’s included: Zingerman’s Farm Bread, Holy Cow Beef Sticks, Downeast Cheddar, no-nut Black Magic Brownie, Ginger Jump-Up Molasses Cookie, Zingerman's Peanut Brittle, and a small-scale Sour Cream Coffee Cake

What we liked: This cheese gift box had one of the highest perceived values of all the ones I tested—my family and guests thought I’d gone overboard at our local cheese shop. Instead, I’d just paired all of Jasper Hill's cheese with items from our fridge and pantry. Your gift recipient can make several cheese plates from the contents and likely still have cheese left over. The four cheeses are crowd-pleasing favorites: a sharp, piquant Cabot cheddar; a buttery wheel of Willoughby; a supple and nutty Whitney (winner of the 2022 American Cheese Society Best of Show award); and a creamy brie-like Harbison.

What we didn’t like: While this gift box had minimal packaging, it was the only box to arrive damaged. A side of the gift box broke under the weight of all that cheese. None of the contents were damaged, but a bit of a bummer for the gift-getter. 

Key Specs

• Shipping package: Bubble envelope around a beautiful gift box, which included an ice pack 
• What’s included: Harbison (9-ounce wheel), Whitney (1-pound wedge), Willoughby (8-ounce wheel) Cabot Clothbound Cheddar (12-ounce wedge), Brewer’s Sea Salt, Flatbread Crackers (5-ounce box), Sugarbob’s Finest Kind Maple Spiced Pecans plus info cards and a sticker 

What we liked: Luxurious, gorgeous, and playful, this chocolate gift basket will have the recipient oohing and ahhing when they open it. While some of the contents should be enjoyed immediately (like the freshly baked cookies), the box of chocolates had such a diverse array of flavors (pistachio and a surprisingly good raisin bonbon) that I savored them over a long period of time. The tiny chocolate mice were such a fun experience for kids and adults alike. 

What we didn’t like: It was the most expensive of all the boxes I tested. And as much as I can’t relate (gimme chocolate!) there might be a few people for whom this is too much of one good thing. Also, the chocolate chip cookies contain nuts. 

Key Specs

• Shipping package: Shipping box with gift crate inside, small chocolate boxes inside the crate. Smaller crate of cookies shipped separately for freshness. 
• What’s included: One pound box of the Everyday Chocolate Assortment, a box of four Chocolate Penguins, a wooden box of 16 hand-piped Chocolate Mice, a box of five chocolate chip walnut cookies, plus flavor guides for each box 

What we liked: Possibly the most vibrant and playful of all the gift boxes, the novelty of this dried fruit assortment can’t be overstated. The contents, which included hunks of golden pineapple, slivers of Irwin mango, and little dried guavas, were approachable and unique, so much so that you might want to order a basket for yourself and your gift recipient. The green mango was almost candylike, and my adult friends fought over the last piece. 

What we didn’t like: While the gift box is specially designed and the packages of dried fruit are generous, a little more packaging might have made this more novel. Your gift recipient might not understand how exciting the dried fruit is until they try each flavor. 

Key Specs

• Shipping package: External shipping box with gift box inside 
• What’s included: Golden diamond pineapple, Irwin mango, wax apple, green mango, and pearl guava 

The Competition

Also Good

• Vermont Wagyu Best Breakfast Box: Similar to Zingerman’s Weekender, this box felt like a complete experience—you have just about everything you need (except a few eggs) for weekend brunch. While the Wagyu products, including bacon and maple breakfast sausage, were unique, the other contents (pancake mix, maple syrup) were more standard pantry staples.
• Giustamo Party in Cucina Gift Basket: This felt like a party in a box! And I sort of used it as such, making a pasta feast for friends with the Faella penne, olive oil, plum tomatoes, and Cerignola olives. I did injure myself on the rustic shipping box, and I ultimately felt I could curate these ingredients myself for the price—but it was still a nice gift box. 
• Fly By Jing Jing Box: I'm a little spice-averse, so I worried it would take me a long time to work through all the spicy sauces. However, I found myself reaching for these condiments over and over again—both for cooking at home and for zhuzhing takeout and leftovers. While I still have jars left, they’re quickly getting used up. You just need to be sure your gift-getter likes things spicy! 
• Portugalia Marketplace Anna Hezel's Tin-to-Table Picks: While I enjoyed Anna Hezel’s cookbook very much, I still (weeks later) have tins of fish to eat up (including tins from Fishwife). You'd need to be certain that the recipient liked fish! If they do, this is a special gift with some great serving ideas presented in the book. 
• Bean Box Coffee World Tour: The coffee was delicious and I even discovered a new-to-me roaster to love. Each bag of coffee makes enough for about two cups of coffee, great for tasting but less for making a morning pot of coffee. 

Not Our Favorite 

• Fishwife Tinned Fish Starter Pack: I'm a big fan of Fishwife and think this is a truly great starter set of tinned fish, but it didn't really feel gift-worthy.
• Catskill Provisions Negroni Kit: While the gin and amaro are delicious and gorgeous, I wish this package had one more item to make it feel like a kit. 
• Levain Bakery Cheers Bundle: The cookies were a bit stale but I enjoyed the flavors very much. This would be a cute pick-me-up for a friend going through a rough patch, but it had the lowest perceived value of the boxes I tested. 
• Williams Sonoma Pantry Gift Crate: ​​While perfectly suited for a starter kitchen, this box felt a little boring. It didn't spark any creativity to use these items together—instead, I tried the olive oil and vinegar with bread and the rest of the spices went into the cabinet. They are great quality, but other gift boxes were better.

FAQs

What makes a gift basket worth the price?

Shipping materials as well as novelty help determine if a gift box is worth the price. Consider if you have the access, time, and knowledge to create or curate the contents and then double your ingredient costs to account for shipping. Most of the time, a gift basket is a considerable saving over making and shipping items yourself. We found that at least three items help a box feel complete! 

How many items should a gift box include? 

A minimum of three items helps a box feel complete, but gift packaging—branded box, tissue or crinkle paper, as well as info cards—add to the overall gift experience. 

Why We’re the Experts

• Meghan Splawn is a food writer and recipe developer who has worked in food media since 2006. 
• She worked for 10 years in the test kitchen with Alton Brown and has done projects for sites including Simply Recipes, TheKitchn, and Serious Eats. 
• Since leaving her hometown almost two decades ago, she has been shipping gifts to extended loved ones. She even spent a month researching the best recipes and packaging for shipping cookies in 2020. 
• For this review, Meghan opened (and recycled) over 13 shipping boxes, made four cheese plates, and is still eating through an extensive collection of tinned fish. 
  

Often referred to as the "Queen of Rice" throughout South Asia and the Middle East, basmati rice is revered for its delicate nutty aroma and long slender grains that remain separate and whole when cooked. It has a firm yet fluffy texture, absorbs flavors well, and pairs beautifully with many different dishes. A proper biryani can't be made without it, and don't even attempt golden crunchy tahdig with anything else.

Below, we've rounded up some of our favorite basmati rice recipes that showcase its versatility across a variety of cuisines—including Indian, Persian, Egyptian, British, Nigerian, and Armenian. Whether it's a hearty and comforting standby, a celebratory showstopper, or a light and satisfying meal, these 10 intensely flavorful dishes will make the most out of a bag of basmati rice.

Lamb Biryani With Saffron, Yogurt, and Caramelized Onions

This biryani is a celebration of aroma, color, and flavor, with perfectly fluffy grains of basmati rice infused with rosewater, pandan, and saffron and succulent chunks of yogurt-marinated, richly spiced lamb. The dish is all about layering textures and building maximum flavor through techniques like deeply caramelizing onion for the base and garnish.

Vegetable Biryani

Brightly colored, intoxicatingly aromatic, and intensely flavorful, vegetable biryani takes less time to make than the meat version, so it's ideally suited for weekday meals. As with all biryani, good basmati rice is crucial for perfectly feathery and light individual grains.

Tahdig (Persian Crunchy Rice)

Tahdig, that most coveted buttery, golden, crunchy layer at the bottom of a pot of rice, is considered by many to be the jewel of Persian cooking and the source of fierce competition amongst those vying for the biggest piece and home cooks jockeying for bragging rights. For the best results, use an inexpensive heat diffuser or a thick, heavy-bottomed pot, or rotate the pot every 10 minutes, and immediately set the pot of cooked rice in cold water or on a thoroughly wet towel to ensure you don't lose a single bit of the golden brown crust.

Kedgeree (British Curried Rice With Smoked Haddock)

Inspired by the South Asian lentil-and-rice dish khichdi, this British recipe combines lightly curry-spiced basmati rice with Scottish smoked fish, jammy boiled eggs, and buttery onions. Toasting the rice in oil for a few minutes before adding the liquid further ensures that the grains of rice remain separate and fluffy.

Nigerian Fried Rice

Golden sella basmati, a type of basmati that has been parboiled, is essential for this Nigerian dish that cooks, feels, and tastes like a cross between Indian pilau and Chinese fried rice. The rice is first partially cooked in Nigerian stock to infuse it with savory flavor, then green bell pepper is added at the end of the cooking process to lend a fresh, vegetal flavor.

Koshari (Egyptian Lentils, Rice, and Pasta)

This dish of fluffy vermicelli, rice, tender black lentils, and soft elbow pasta is iconic Egyptian street fare that's bursting with tart and savory flavors and contrasting textures. It's fairly simple to make despite its long list of ingredients. To speed up the cooking time and ensure tender, fluffy grains, pre-soak the rice and lentils.

Nigerian Jollof Rice

The keys to making this seasoned tomatoey West African classic are choosing the right type of rice, in this case golden sella basmati, and slow cooking. Cooking the rice most of the way on low heat allows the grains to absorb the sauce properly, cook evenly, and not burn on the bottom; stirring minimally ensures evenly cooked rice while keeping the grains separate.

Ghapama (Armenian Stuffed Pumpkin)

If you're looking for a “low effort, high reward” showstopper that’s ideal for serving guests, then this gorgeous honey-butter–glazed pumpkin stuffed with rice, dried fruits, and nuts is it. Parboiled rice guarantees the stuffing cooks through at the same rate as the pumpkin. Brown butter amplifies basmati rice's nutty aroma and adds a complex, savory flavor.

North African Tuna and Rice Salad

We've drawn inspiration from North African pantry staples like harissa, preserved lemons, and olives to transform plain leftover basmati rice into a bright salad that's a meal by itself. Meaty tuna, crunchy vegetables, and fluffy rice dressed in a punchy vinaigrette offer a delightful contrast of textures and flavors.

Dosa (Indian Rice-and-Lentil Crepes)

Our version of the popular South Asian crepe made from fermented basmati rice and black lentils is crisp, chewy, and light, with a sourdough-like tang thanks to a double fermentation. Dosas are remarkably versatile and can be served with any number of accouterments or fillings, though masala dosa is the most iconic iteration—stuffed with a spiced potato filling and rolled into a log and served with coconut chutney.

I live in a Queens neighborhood with a sizable Colombian community. There are two Colombian restaurants and a bakery on three of my block's four street corners, and dozens more on all the blocks beyond that. If I tripped, I'd land face-first on an arepa.

But one arepa I don't see too often even in my neighborhood is an arepa de huevo—a deep-fried corn cake with an egg inside. The beauty of the area de huevo, aside from its flavor, is the range of textures you get from it: potato-chip crisp on the outside, tender (even runny) egg within. I'm at a loss to think of a crispier egg preparation.

A popular breakfast and snack food on Colombia's Caribbean coast, arepas de huevo are easy to make at home with just a little practice. I first learned to make them about twenty years ago, when the Colombian mother of an ex of mine taught me during a visit. I fell for them immediately, and started frying arepa after arepa, both because I wanted to keep eating them, but also because I was having a lot of fun messing around with the yolk doneness levels. There's no right way to cook the egg: Some people, including my ex's mom, like them fully cooked through with a set yolk, but others (like me) love the self-saucing effect of an arepa de huevo with a drippy center.

The process for making them is pretty straightforward. You start by mixing water with masarepa, a pre-cooked corn flour product that is commonly used to make arepas. Then you form that dough into balls, press them flat, and fry them until puffed. After that, you take the arepa out of the oil, let it cool for a minute, then carefully slice a hole in the side near one of the edges. Into this hole you slip a raw egg. Then it goes back into the oil to fry just long enough to cook the egg to your desired doneness.

How to Make Arepas de Huevo

The process, as noted above, is straightforward:

1. Mix water with masarepa.
2. Form the dough into balls, press them flat, and fry them until puffed.
3. Remove from the oil, let cool slightly, then cut a small hole near the edge.
4. Slip in a raw egg, then fry again to cook the egg to your liking.

Here are some tips to guide you through the process:

• Yellow and white masarepa work equally well. Masarepa is sold in both yellow and white variants, depending on the corn used, but the difference is primarily visual. I find the yellow color more striking when fried until crisp and cradling that golden yolk.
• Press the arepas between plastic for ease. This is common technique with tortillas as well, just slice open a zipper-lock bag on two sides and sandwich the ball of arepa dough between it. Then fold the flap of plastic over and press the arepa flat using either a tortilla press or a heavy, flat object like the bottom of a skillet. You can wash and save the plastic between uses.
• Adjust water as needed. If your dough cracks or crumbles, work in more water, one tablespoon at a time until the dough is a bit more malleable and friendly.
• Smooth the arepa edges. After pressing the arepa, it will usually have a jagged edge. Smoothing this edge out will help the arepa fry and inflate evenly. You can do this either with a fingernail through the plastic, or with a wet finger directly on the arepa edge itself.
• Don't make them too large and thin. Without gluten for elasticity, the dough can tear easily. Keep them around three inches in diameter and just under 1/4 inch thick for easy handling. If one falls apart, you can roll it back into a ball and start over.

The arepas don't necessarily need anything extra—they're delicious on their own, maybe with a coffee on the side. But that doesn't mean you shouldn't add condiments: hot sauce, Colombian ají (a fresh salsa served with many foods), and salsa rosada (a mix of mayo and ketchup) are all great options.

In a large mixing bowl, stir together masarepa, water, and salt. Using a clean hand, knead dough until evenly mixed and cohesive, about 1 minute. Let stand 5 minutes.

Using a sharp knife or scissors, cut the sides of a 1-quart or 1-gallon zipper-lock bag so that it is attached only at the bottom fold. In a large Dutch oven or pot, heat at least 2 inches of oil to 330°F (165°C) on an instant-read or fry thermometer. Meanwhile, divide dough into 8 even portions (about 1 3/4 ounces each); if dough is very brittle, mix in an additional 1 tablespoon water to moisten, then divide into balls and cover loosely with a kitchen towel,

Working with one ball of arepa dough at a time, roll between moistened hands to form a uniform ball. Set ball on the opened zipper-lock bag, then fold the bag closed over it. Using a tortilla press or a flat, heavy object like a cutting board or cast iron pan, evenly press down on the dough ball to flatten it into an even circle, roughly 3 inches in diameter and just under 1/4 inch thick. Smooth any jagged edges of the arepa (this can be done by smoothing the edges with a fingernail through the plastic, or with a wet finger directly on the arepa).

Crack 1 large egg into a small (preferably spouted) vessel or cup, being careful not to break the yolk. Season lightly with salt. Very carefully peel arepa from the plastic, taking care not to tear it, and gently lower it into the oil (this is the trickiest part, and it is easy to accidentally tear the uncooked arepa at this point; if you do, just roll it into a ball again, press it between the plastic back into a round, smooth the edges, and try again). Fry the arepa, gently spooning hot oil on top after it rises to the surface, until inflated, about 2 minutes. Carefully flip arepa and fry on second side 1 minute longer. Using a spider or slotted spoon, carefully transfer arepa to towels to drain.

When cool enough to handle, use a sharp knife to carefully cut slit into the arepa near the edge and large enough to slide the egg through. While holding the arepa in one hand and gently squeezing it to keep the slit open, very carefully slide the egg into the arepa.

Carefully lower the arepa back into the oil, using the spider or spoon to keep the slit-open side of the arepa slightly elevated until egg beings to set, then lower arepa fully into the oil. Fry until egg is cooked to your desired doneness, 1 to 2 minutes for a runnier yolk and 3 to 4 minutes for a more set one. Transfer to towels to drain once more. Repeat with remaining area dough and eggs. Serve warm.

Special Equipment

Zipper-lock bag; tortilla press or heavy flat object such as a cutting board or cast iron pan; large Dutch oven or pot (for frying); instant-read or fry thermometer

Notes

Masarepa is a type of corn flour that has been pre-cooked and then dehydrated. The ratio of water to masarepa here should work for most brands, but if the package instructions suggest a different ratio for arepas (and specifically arepas de huevo), feel free to follow the product's directions.

Make-Ahead and Storage

Arepas de huevo are best when freshly fried.

Arguably one of the Indian subcontinent’s most popular street foods is pani puri. In Delhi and other northern regions of India as well as in Pakistan, the dish goes by the name gol gappa while in the eastern state of West Bengal, it is called puchka, a name that sounds onomatopoeic to me, reflecting the squishy sound that a pani puri makes when you bite into it. It’s a satisfying snack that’s most often enjoyed at roadside vendors in South Asia, but I love to prepare pani puri at home for gatherings with friends and family. Endlessly customizable, the crisp bread puffs are filled with an assortment of savory, tangy, sweet, and crispy fillings, while flavored "waters" help create a dynamic and juicy bite.

Pani puri translates to water (pani) in fried bread (puri). The word "water" here may be misleading—they're really sauces with a thin, water-like viscosity that are infused with things like fresh herbs, spices, and fruity-tart ingredients like tamarind. The puri, meanwhile, are small, deep-fried shells of puffed bread that are hollowed out to make room for all the fillings. Those fillings often include a spiced potato mash, hearty cooked beans (mung beans or chickpeas), and an assortment of crunchy toppings.

It might at first seem daunting to prepare so many elements for just one dish, but I assure you that each component is fairly simple to prepare and just about everything can be made ahead for ease.

The Puri 

The flaky shells used in pani puri are a smaller version of a fried bread also known as puri. In pani puri, the crispy, deep-fried spheres are cracked open and stuffed with fillings before they’re dunked or doused into the prepared flavored waters. For this to happen, the individual-sized shells need to be sturdy enough to remain intact once filled and dipped, but still light, flaky, and crispy when bitten into. 

When I started developing this recipe, I tested making my own small puri that lived up to this tall order. But after rounds of dough kneading, rolling, cutting, and frying, I realized that even for me, a skilled Indian chef, it was too challenging to recreate this ideal puri texture in my home kitchen.

The solution is to stick with store-bought puri shells, which are excellent quality. The bite-size puffs are made from semolina and rice flour and can be found at most South Asian markets; they're often sold in egg carton-esque plastic containers or by the bag.

Make sure to purchase puris no more than two days before serving to ensure freshness (I even recommend asking about their freshness at the store). Inspect the package closely to check for shattered or squished puri—they’re fairly delicate and can break easily in transit. If you are able, sniff the puris before buying; they should smell lightly of freshly fried bread. An intense smell of oil indicates that they are most likely stale.

The Fillings

There are many filling options for pani puri. Here I’ve included two: a simple-to-prepare boiled and mashed potato filling spiced with dried Kashmiri chile, as well as boiled mung beans (green gram). Both are standard filling options for pani puri.

Soaking and cooking the mung beans is a simple but time-consuming process of boiling the beans and then seasoning them with salt, so if you’re in a rush, you can substitute with canned cooked chickpeas. Don't be concerned with the fact that the beans are only seasoned with salt: The filled pani puri have so many other big, bold flavors from the two flavored waters and spiced crispy condiments that keeping the beans simple is best.

The Pani

Most of pani puri’s flavor comes from the flavored water that each filled puri is doused with. The flavored waters should be intensely seasoned and pack a spicy, herbaceous, tangy punch. I like to serve pani puri with two styles of flavored water. One is a spicy mix of mint, cilantro, fresh green chiles, and cumin. The other flavored water is sweet and tart from jaggery (unrefined sugar made from the boiled and concentrated juice of sugarcane, date, and/or palm sap) and tamarind, with subtle heat from chile powder, and a distinctive tangy, sulphuric, savory aroma from chaat masala. 

Serving Suggestions for Pani Puri

When you eat pani puri at a roadside vendor, the puri is assembled for you: The vendor cracks open the top of the bread, stuffs it with a wee bit of every filling he stocks, then dunks the stuffed puri in the flavored waters before quickly handing it to you to eat immediately. Vendors won’t even make the next puri for you until you’ve finished the last one because they don’t want it to get soggy or fall apart on you.

To avoid soggy pani puri at home, I recommend serving all of the individual elements separately, and letting guests build their own. To build an individual pani puri, hold a puri at the seam between thumb and forefinger, keeping the bottom of it on the surface of the plate so it is steady. Using your other hand, break into the top of the puri, right in the middle and make a hole about 1 to 1 1/2 inches wide. Use a teaspoon (or fingers) to put a little of the fillings and toppings into a puri. Then use a soup spoon to pour some of the spicy water and the sweet–tart water over the top. Don’t forget to serve with crunchy bundi (deep fried chickpea paste balls) and sev (deep fried spiced chickpea paste threads).

For the Sweet-Tart Spiced Water: In a large metal or glass bowl, cover tamarind with hot water. Soak for at least 2 and up to 4 hours.

Using your hands, press tamarind in the water to separate pulp. Set a fine-mesh strainer over a large bowl. Pour tamarind-water mixture through it, pushing and pressing on the pulp until all the water and pulp has passed through; discard seeds, skins, and fibres. Stir jaggery or brown sugar, salt, cumin, and red chile powder into tamarind water until well combined. Set aside until ready to serve, stirring occasionally to ensure all sugar and salt has fully dissolved.

For the Spicy Herb Water: In a blender jar, add 1 cup water, mint, cilantro, ginger, chiles, cumin, and salt and blend on high power until smooth, about 1 minute.

Add additional 1 cup water and blend for 30 seconds on high to ensure no lumps of ginger or chiles remain.

Set a clean fine-mesh strainer over a bowl, then strain blended puree through it, pressing on pulp to extract as much as possible; discard solids. Stir in chaat or pani puri masala. Season with salt to taste. The liquid should be spicy and minty. If it tastes too hot for your liking, stir in sugar; set aside until ready to serve.

For the Spiced Potatoes: In a medium saucepan, add potatoes, 1 teaspoon salt, and enough cold water to cover by 1-inch. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat to a vigorous simmer over medium heat and cook until potatoes are tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain potatoes, transfer to a bowl, and let cool for 10 minutes. Mash potatoes roughly or cut them into 1/4-inch chunks. Stir in salt, cumin, and red chile powder, if using, until well combined. Transfer spiced potatoes to a serving bowl.

For the Beans: If using mung beans, pick through to remove any hard bits of debris, then rinse beans well. Soak mung beans in 2 cups (480 ml) of warm water, covered and at room temperature, for at least 8 and up to 12 hours.

Drain and rinse mung beans well and cover again with 2 cups warm water. Set aside until beans have softened, about 4 hours. Check if mung beans have softened by pressing one bean between thumb and forefinger. If it breaks easily, it is ready to cook, if not, continue to soak for an additional hour and check again. Drain and rinse mung beans.

In a large saucepan, cover softened mung beans with 2 1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil over medium heat, then reduce heat to low and cook mung beans, uncovered, until beans are fully softened and break apart very easily when pressed, about 15 minutes. Drain and rinse beans and transfer to a serving bowl. Season with salt.

If using canned chickpeas, drain and rinse chickpeas before placing them in a mixing bowl. Using a potato masher or fork, mash chickpeas roughly. Stir in salt; transfer to serving bowl and set aside until ready to serve.

To Serve: Transfer the prepared sweet-tart spiced water, spicy herb water, spiced potatoes, prepared mung beans or chickpeas, onion, cilantro, bundi, sev or bhujia, and puris to separate plates and vessels on a serving table. Include plates, 2 teaspoons and 1 soup spoon per guest.

To Prepare 1 Pani Puri: The puri (puffed shell) has a thinner and crispier side; holding it on a plate, punch a roughly 1-inch hole into this thin side with your index finger, allowing the shards of puri to fall into the ball. Stuff the puri with potato mash and/or bean filling, then spoon sweet-tart spiced water and/or spicy mint water over top. Sprinkle with onion, cilantro, bundi (if using), and sev or bhujia (if using). Enjoy.

Special Equipment

Fine-mesh strainer, blender, medium saucepan, potato masher or fork, large saucepan (if preparing mungbeans)

Notes

This recipe can be easily doubled.

Make sure you have extra puris on hand in case a few are accidentally broken.

Bundi (deep fried chickpea paste balls) and sev (deep fried chickpea paste threads) are snacks that can be purchased at most South Asian grocery stores. They offer a crunchy counterpoint to the soft potato and mung bean fillings. 

Make Ahead and Storage

The green mung beans can be soaked up to 2 days before cooking. The cooked mung beans can be cooled and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 days before serving.

The potatoes can be boiled and refrigerated up to 1 day before serving. Mash and season just before serving.

The two spiced waters can be prepared and refrigerated in airtight containers up to 1 day before serving.

Make sure to purchase puris no more than 2 days before serving to ensure they are fresh.

I’ll be honest: Sometimes, I don’t feel like dirtying two knives. While my nakiri knife, paring knife, and chef’s knife are trusted blades that carry me through weeknight meals and weekend cooking projects, my favorite (of over a decade) is a versatile 5-inch serrated knife from OXO that lets me slice tomatoes and a crusty loaf of bread in one go for my avocado toast. Plus, it’s only $15—a tiny investment for a knife that’s quite the multitasker (fruit and bread? Oh là là).

The Takeaways

It’s Great for Delicate Tasks

I reach for it over my other knives sometimes because I know its teeth will produce consistently smooth slices every single time, be it lemons, tomatoes, or peaches. It simply glides through without squishing the soft insides. It’s also my go-to knife for halving baked goods like croissants or brioche buns without crushing them.

It Holds Up Against Harder Foods, Too

I love my bread knife, but this serrated knife could give it a run for its money. While it’s not long enough to slice through a large sourdough batard, it’s great for French baguettes or crusty rolls. It’s also adept at cutting stringy ingredients like rhubarb and celery and can produce a picture-worthy cross-section of a bagel sandwich. It’s so sharp I’ve even used it to saw off a knob of frozen ginger, but don’t try that one at home.

It’s Durable and Comfortable to Hold

Even though I bought this knife over 10 years ago, it’s still as sharp as the day I got it. It cleans up with warm soapy water and is surprisingly forgiving if you forget about it by the sink. At least, mine has never shown signs of rusting if I don’t clean it right away. The knife also has a curved, textured handle that ensures a stable grip for every task. 

Do I Recommend It?

OXO Good Grips 5-Inch Serrated Utility Knife

Be it slicing nectarines, lemons, or bagels, this serrated knife is my go-to for countless kitchen tasks. It’s remained super sharp for over a decade and has never squished a tomato under my watch. Its strength is in its versatility as a blade that can glide through soft fruit just as easily as it can saw into crusty bread. At just $15, it’s worth grabbing to make kitchen workflows more efficient.

Why We’re the Experts

• An Uong is a writer for Serious Eats.
• An has been testing kitchen gear for Serious Eats for over two years.
• She’s a firm believer in having a minimal set of essential knives (and keeping them sharp).

I’ve always wanted to be someone who meal preps on the weekends so we have several dinners lined up and ready to go for busy weeknights. But the reality is my husband and I simply do not have the time or energy to plan, grocery shop, clean, parent, and cook several meals in advance. Our solution is a little more half-assed: I’ll roast some vegetables, cook some grains, and spin some salad greens on the weekend. Then, during the week, I’ll dry brine some meat or marinate some fish the day before I plan to serve it, then when it's go-time I quickly cook the fish or meat and mix-and-match it with whatever vegetables and grains we have prepped. It might not be full meal prep, but it makes weeknights a lot simpler. 

One meal we make frequently is juicy, tender pork chops with a subtly sweet honey-mustard sauce. The dish is incredibly easy to make, requires minimal prep, and can be on the table in less than 45 minutes—much of that hands-off oven time. It’s a great weeknight meal, but also elegant enough for a dinner party when paired with the right sides. For all of those reasons, it’s a recipe that’s always in my back pocket, and at this point, I can practically make these pork chops with my eyes closed. All you have to do is dry brine them (if you have time), start the meat at a low temperature in the oven, then finish it in a smoking hot skillet before whipping up a quick pan sauce.

Have Time? Don’t Skip the Dry Brine

At Serious Eats, we’re huge advocates of dry-brining, the process of salting and resting food before you cook it. Though dry-brining isn’t essential, I highly recommend it. Salting the pork draws out its natural liquids, which dissolves the salt on the meat’s surface before it’s reabsorbed. As former Serious Eats editor Sasha wrote in his guide to dry-brining, “the moisture that was initially drawn out of the meat is absorbed to counteract the shift in salt concentration from surface to interior, leaving you with a well-seasoned piece of meat that will now better retain its natural moisture content during cooking.” Below, I recommend dry-brining your pork chops for at least eight hours, but even an hour or two—or even 45 minutes—will be beneficial. (As explained in the brining guide, if you don't have at least 45 minutes to brine, you're actually better off not brining at all and should instead cook the chops immediately after salting them.) 

Reverse Sear Your Pork Chops

Former Serious Eats editor Kenji has written at length about the benefits of reverse searing; the method involves bringing your meat up to temperature in a low oven of about 250°F (121°C), then searing it after. That low heat removes any remaining surface moisture and ensures that your meat is evenly and gently cooked. Once it’s almost at the temperature you’re looking for, you can sear it in a hot pan to give it a good crust. Though the technique is often used to prepare steak, it’s also a great way to cook other cuts of meat—and is how our editorial director, Daniel and I both like to prepare our pork chops.

Make a Quick Pan Sauce

There are many sauces that go well with pork chops, including these lemon butter, rosemary, and apple cider pan sauces. Here, I’ve gone the honey-mustard route, a classic flavor combination that has a touch of sweetness and sharpness. After I sear the pork chops and set them on a wire rack to rest, I drain the remaining fat, then sauté shallots and thyme in a tablespoon of butter until softened. A little white wine or chicken broth goes in, and after it’s reduced by about half, I whisk in the remaining butter, along with mustard, honey, and lemon juice for a silky smooth sauce. And that’s all there is to making a tender, juicy pork chop. Serve the sauce smothered chops with a simple salad and some mashed potatoes, and that’s dinner on the table.

Pat pork chops dry with a paper towel. In a small bowl, combine salt and baking soda. Season pork chops generously on all sides with salt mixture. (You may have some seasoning mixture left over; reserve for another use or discard.) Transfer to a wire rack set in a rimmed 13- by 18-inch baking sheet. If dry-brining chops overnight, refrigerate, uncovered, at least 8 hours and up to 24; otherwise proceed immediately to step 2.

Preheat oven to 250°F (121°C). Season chops with pepper. Place baking sheet with pork chops in oven and cook until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the chops registers 100 to 110°F (38 to 43°C) for medium-rare, 20 to 25 minutes, or 110 to 120°F (43 to 49°C) for medium, 35 to 40 minutes. To prevent overcooking, start checking temperature 5 to 10 minutes before suggested time. Remove from oven.

Heat oil in a large carbon steel or cast iron skillet over high heat until smoking. Working in batches if necessary to not overcrowd the skillet, place pork chops in skillet and cook, turning occasionally, until browned and an instant-read thermometer registers 120 to 130° (49 to 54°C) for medium-rare or 130 to 140°F (54 to 60°C) for medium, about 3 to 5 minutes. Stack pork chops with tongs, hold them on their sides, and sear the fat caps on the edges until crisp, about 1 minute. Remove pan from heat, transfer chops to a clean rack set in a rimmed baking sheet, and let rest for 3 to 5 minutes while you prepare the sauce.

Pour fat from skillet; do not wipe out pan. Add 1 tablespoon butter and melt over medium-high heat. Add shallots and thyme and cook, stirring, until softened, about 1 minute. Stir in white wine or broth and bring to a simmer. Lower heat to medium and simmer until liquid is slightly reduced, about 4 minutes. Stir in mustard, honey, lemon juice, and remaining 3 tablespoons butter until well combined. Remove from heat, season to taste, and serve chops with sauce spooned on top.

Special Equipment

Wire rack, 13- by 18-inch rimmed baking sheet, instant-read thermometer, large carbon steel or cast iron skillet, tongs, whisk

Notes

This recipe can be prepared with boneless pork loin chops, but boneless pork chops won’t be as flavorful as bone-in. They will likely take less time to cook; to prevent overcooking, start checking temperature 5 to 10 minutes before suggested time for bone-in pork chops.

Make-Ahead and Storage

Leftover pork chops and sauce can be refrigerated separately in airtight containers for up to 3 days. The pork chops can be reheated in the microwave or in a 350°F (175°C) oven or air fryer until warmed through. The sauce can be gently reheated in the microwave on low power.

If you’re a fan of cold brew coffee, you’re in good company. The market for the drinks, estimated to grow to about $3.87 billion this year, is expected to reach more than $16 billion by 2032. That noise we’re all familiar with—swirling ice around supersized plastic cups between sips—isn’t going away anytime soon.

I love cold brewed coffee enough to drink it year-round and keep a squeeze bottle filled with simple syrup in the refrigerator to tune up my late afternoon dose. Cold brew tastes great and doesn’t need a lot of fancy gear. Even with a bag of premium beans, you could make cold brew at home for far less than what you'd pay at most coffee shops, though this takes at least eight hours and usually overnight.

Do you know who doesn’t have to wait long for coffee? Those who take it hot in a traditional coffee maker (or the Keurig crowd). Even the four minutes or so it requires to do pour-over feels “instant” compared to cold brew.

Cumulus is the first machine to offer on-demand cold brew. Instead of chilling hot coffee over ice, or shortcutting the steeping process while making cold brew—both options we’ve seen before—Cumulus relies on capsules full of cold brew concentrate and, essentially, a mini refrigerator inside that keeps water at around a crisp 43ºF. If you love cold brew or nitro coffee enough to spend $700 on a machine and invest in a pod-based system, the Cumulus delivers on taste and speed.

The Tests

• Taste Test: Using both dark and medium roast pods, I made several cups of the machine’s three options—cold coffee, nitro, and espresso—and noted the taste and texture.
• Temperature Test: Using an instant-read thermometer, I took the temperature of each of the machine’s three drinks and noted the temperature consistency.
• Timing Test: I brewed each of the Cumulus' three drinks and timed how long they took.
• Taste Test: I tasted these drinks: a 10-ounce cold brew; 10-ounce nitro; and two-ounce cold espresso.
• Use Test: Throughout testing, I noted how easy the coffee maker was to set up, use, and clean.

What We Learned

You Better Love Cold Coffee, Because You’ll Need to Drink a Lot of It

Cumulus uses proprietary coffee-filled pods that, at least for now, are sold exclusively through the brand’s site. The system works like other pod-based coffee makers: Add water, load in a pod, make a drink, and then yank the empty canister. 

The recyclable aluminum pods hold 0.68 fluid ounces of cold brew concentrate and look like tiny beer kegs. When I opened one to taste the coffee it was intensely bitter, with a consistency closer to syrup than coffee. The pods don’t require refrigeration.

The Cumulus coffee maker produces three drinks: a 10-ounce cold brew, or what the machine calls “still”; a 10-ounce nitro cold brew, and a two-ounce cold espresso. In every case, the pod’s contents get pulled out of the machine and mixed with water that you load to make the drink. “Espresso” isn’t the most accurate description, since the coffee in the pod isn’t brewed, nor is it made using pressure. 

Cumulus has a patent around the technology in the machine that produces nitrogen cold brew. Instead of relying on CO2 canisters, Cumulus uses a series of pumps and valves to pressurize ambient air it pulls in through vents in the side. From there, the machine injects tiny bubbles into the water that then mixes with the concentrate to provide that creamy head, luscious mouthfeel, and cascading look. It adds that foam to the nitro and espresso more so than the cold brew. 

Cumulus ships its machine with a variety pack of 12 coffee pods. The brand offers five different coffees—from light to dark roast, and decaffeinated—and the website provides tasting notes and acidity levels. The most common way to buy more capsules is a 10-pack sleeve for $25, plus about $8 for shipping. (If you buy three sleeves, and spend $75 or more, shipping is free.)

It Was Huge

Cumulus is a big investment, but it’s also just plain big. At 19 x 6 x 16 inches and just over 30 pounds (empty), it packs a Dell CPU vibe sitting on the countertop. In most kitchens with upper cabinets, you usually have about 18 inches of room above the countertop, so the Cumulus, which comes in black or white, should fit. But the Cumulus gets taller than 16 inches. To make a coffee you press on a chamber in front, which then springs up—like a dumbwaiter—revealing the chamber that accepts the coffee pod. Press that down until it clicks and you’re a button press away from coffee. When left open, that chamber bumps the height up to 20 inches, which is just below the bottom edge of my upper cabinet’s door. It might sound like a small detail, but during testing, when I absentmindedly left the chamber up, I was thrilled the cabinet door above it, which I was opening, didn’t cause a collision.

The Machine Was Sleek, at a Cost

With a few days of use, the Cumulus is easy to master. But you’ll probably need to hold onto the owner’s manual. The bone I have to pick with Cumulus is the same with a lot of design-forward tech like speakers, earbuds, etc. To streamline the looks, designers rely on tiny LEDs, and few words, to communicate issues, leaving you at times feeling like you’re trying to decipher Morse code using lights.

The Cumulus has essentially three controls on it, the most intuitive of which is the large, toothy wheel at the top you rotate right or left to select cold brew, nitro, or espresso. Below that, is a large brew button you press to start the process of mixing the pod’s contents with water, and it has an LED ring around it. That ring can be blue, green, white, orange, or red, and all those colors mean different things. Below the brew button is a small LED that Cumulus calls the alert light. It too can be white, blue, or orange and each color has a meaning. Unfortunately, Cumulus isn’t popular enough yet to where you can ask Alexa “what does the orange light on Cumulus mean?” the way I do for my Sonos speaker.

The first machine Cumulus sent me had a defective valve that would allow some coffee concentrate to leak into the drip tray below. Cumulus replaced the machine and that issue hasn’t happened again, so I’m confident the leak was limited to an early model sent to the media. And while I didn’t experience any major issues while testing, I’d say I never felt comfortable enough to keep the manual—which includes a color decoder—anywhere but right on top of the machine.

The pull-out water carafe holds about 44 fluid ounces of water, which it cleans using the replaceable Brita-style filter. When you first fill the Cumulus it needs up to 15 minutes to cool it down to about 43 to 44ºF, and up to three minutes if you refill it before it empties, which means the coffee maker frequently cycles on and off to keep the water constantly chilled. (A standby mode button on the back does prevent the machine from cycling on and off as necessary to keep the water cold). Once fully loaded, Cumulus can make up to three of the 10-ounce drinks back-to-back before you need to add more water and wait another 10 to 15 minutes for it to chill down. If you attempt to make a drink and Cumulus senses you don’t have enough water, an LED alerts you. The coffee maker can get a bit noisy while it's working. Cumulus reached about 76 decibels while making a nitro during testing, which would have been enough to force you to move away from it if you were on a phone call.

After about 150 brews the LED turns orange notifying you to clean the system. I found the task pretty simple: Add some of the detergent Cumulus ships with the machine, along with water, into the water tank and pop in the blank aluminum pod they supply, then press brew.

The Coffee Cumulus Made Was Good, Cold, and Fast

During rounds of coffee making I was happy with the consistent and pleasing flavor from all three of the beverages. The flavor profile of coffee tends to be a bit muted in cold brew but, as you’d expect, the level of acidity was also lower. When I tried the Arabica coffees without milk, the roasty notes of the light and medium coffees shined through and I found the punchier dark roasts more pleasing as a smaller cold espresso. Cumulus mentions tasting notes like crisp citrus, lingering honey, and musky cedar—all of which were harder for me to discern when chilled, and even more so if you take your cold brew with cream.

It takes about 70 seconds to make either a 10-ounce cold brew and nitro, which finishes pouring at about 43ºF. That’s (hopefully) slightly warmer than the food in your refrigerator and was cold enough for me to enjoy without adding ice. I tried gaming the Cumulus by starting with refrigerated water kept at 40ºF, instead of cold tap, and it didn’t seem to make a difference in the time or final temperature. 

The cold brew was potent and I’d say if you enjoy cold brew at coffee shops, you might want to add a splash of water or maybe some ice to it to dilute it a touch. I’ve made cold brew more quickly at home, from commercial concentrates, but the flavor of the Cumulus was cleaner and I enjoyed drinking it black, which is not something I can say for a lot of bottled versions. 

For me, the star of this machine is the nitro, which is a drink that’s difficult to reproduce at home. Having used the first-generation Spinn, which also has a nitro feature, the Cumulus version is better. The injected air, which you can see as a stream of cloudy water that flows into the cup after the coffee, creates a foam that is thicker, creamier, and lingers longer.

The two-ounce espresso was particularly luxurious and unlike what you’d find at a coffee shop. Typically, an iced espresso is what it sounds like—hot coffee poured over ice, and the crema is collateral damage. But on the Cumulus the espresso has an equal ratio of two ounces of foam to two ounces of coffee. It’s a punchy little shot that offers a nice pick-me-up during the afternoons. Is it a proper espresso? No, it’s more along the lines of a stronger cold brew with more foam, but still unique to have a home. The espresso takes about 35 seconds and pours at about 44ºF. It offers a bit of customization: If you find the 10-ounce cold brew a touch weak, you could make the two-ounce espresso and dilute it with less water. I added water first to avoid collapsing the crema.

The Verdict

While this $695 machine is certainly a splurge, the pods it relies on are filled with great-tasting coffee. I enjoyed all three of the drinks the Cumulus makes, but the nitro is the best of the bunch. If you’re comfortable buying into a pod-based system, and would otherwise head to a coffee shop for your cold brew fix, the Cumulus could be a good fit. But if you only drink cold brew, or there is only one cold coffee drinker in the house, it will take a good long while for the investment to pay off.

The Pros

The machine doesn’t need much in the way of maintenance and produces beverages with the push of a button. There is no app or connectivity to get in the way. All three of the drinks come out cold enough—about 43ºF—to drink straight, without any ice. It can crank out up to three drinks in rapid succession before needing to add more water.

The Cons

Cumulus is expensive, the machine isn’t small, and there isn’t much versatility in drink sizes. It uses colored lights instead of text to communicate what's going on, so it can take a while to learn how to use the machine. You’ll want to keep the owner’s manual.

Key Specs

• Materials: Food-grade plastic, stainless steel, aluminum, and silicone
• Connectivity: None
• Cord length: About 43 inches
• Size: 19 x 6 x 16 inches (closed), 20 inches tall when open
• Weight: 30 pounds, 9.6 ounces (without water)
• Water capacity: 44 ounces
• Serve sizes: 10-ounce cold brew; 10-ounce nitro; 2-ounce cold espresso
• Warranty: A two-year standard warranty, or a three-year warranty with registration

FAQs 

Who owns Cumulus Coffee?

Cumulus Coffee Company is a startup that raised more than $20 million in funding to bring its coffee maker to market. CEO Mesh Gelman,, a former Starbucks executive, notes the trend in cold coffee is the driving force behind Cumulus. Former Starbucks CEO Howard Schultz is among those who invested in the brand.

Does the Cumulus coffee maker only make cold coffee?

Yes. It makes three drinks, each about 43ºF. Pick between a 10-ounce cold brew, a 10-ounce nitro, or a 2-ounce espresso.

Why We’re the Experts

• Sal Vaglica was the equipment editor for Serious Eats. He now writes for the site.
• For this review, he made cups of cold brew, nitro, and cold espresso from a range of light- and dark-roasted coffee.
  

There are many iterations of chocolate cake, and I love each and every one of them. You could hand me a flourless chocolate cake, a chocolate mug cake, or a no-bake cheesecake, and I’d be thrilled to dig into each and every one of them. There’s one, however, that I don’t get to enjoy very often: Guinness-chocolate cake. I almost never think of making it unless St. Patrick’s Day is around the corner, and I don’t come across it frequently in bakeries or restaurants. The cake is incredibly moist and rich, with a deep chocolate flavor that’s complemented by the beer’s malty, tangy undertones.

The stout-infused chocolate cake recipe below comes from my Birmingham, Alabama-based test kitchen colleague Jasmine Smith. Her sheet cake is balanced, with plenty of flavor from both the chocolate and beer, and a malted vanilla frosting adds just enough sweetness—plus the creamy frosting visually evokes the thick, creamy head on a properly poured stout. Here’s how to make it.

4 Tips for Making a Delicious Guinness-Chocolate Sheet Cake

Use Guinness Extra Stout, if possible. Guinness sells several kinds of beers; their extra stout, which is sold in bottles in the US, has a smooth, creamy finish with toasty coffee notes that complement the chocolate in the cake. Here, we use bottled Guinness Extra Stout, which has less water, more concentrated roasted barley flavor, and residual sugar than the Guinness Draft Stout sold in cans. If you can’t find any Guinness Extra Stout, Dragon Stout or Left Hand Brewery Milk Stout both have a similar flavor profile and would be good substitutes.

Warm up your beer. Some chocolate cake recipes, like devil’s food cake, call for stirring cocoa powder and chocolate into hot water or coffee. Here, we use beer that’s just been brought to a simmer, which helps dissolve the cocoa powder. 

Brush the cake with a Guinness syrup. To keep the cake moist, make a simple syrup by whisking Guinness, sugar, and instant espresso powder together in a saucepan over heat on the stovetop, then brush the cake with it. This not only helps the cake stay softer for longer, but also gives the cake additional stout flavor (most of the alcohol will cook off).

Top it with a malted vanilla frosting. Cream cheese helps stabilize the frosting and gives it its rich, creamy texture. Incorporating malted milk powder gives it a delicious nuttiness and savory depth; the ingredient is made from barley that’s been malted—the process of soaking, germinating, and drying grains—which gives it a distinct earthiness. Malted grains are often used to brew beer, and because much of Guinness’ flavor comes from malted barley, the frosting pairs wonderfully with the cake and enhances the bittersweet flavors of the hops and chocolate. If you love malted milk powder as much as I do, then you’ll probably want to eat the frosting all on its own. Just remember to leave some for the cake.

For the Cake: Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Grease a 10- by 15-inch rimmed baking sheet or 9- by 13-inch baking pan with butter and dust with cocoa powder, shaking out excess. (See notes.)

In a small saucepan, bring beer to a simmer over medium heat; remove from heat and set aside. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk flour, sugar, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together to combine.

Add eggs, milk, oil, and vanilla to flour mixture; whisk until well combined and no streaks remain. Gradually pour warmed beer into batter and whisk to combine. (Batter will be thin.) Pour batter into prepared pan.

Bake until a toothpick or cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean and cake springs back when gently touched, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove from oven and cool completely in pan on a wire rack, about 1 hour.

While the cake cools, prepare the Guinness Syrup: In a small saucepan, whisk beer, sugar, and espresso granules to combine. Bring to a simmer over medium heat; cook, stirring often, until sugar is dissolved, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat.

Using a fork, poke the cooled cake all over. Using a pastry brush, brush cake with syrup until all the liquid is absorbed. (It may look like a lot of liquid, but the cake will soak it all up.)

For the Malted Vanilla Frosting: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat cream cheese, sugar, malted milk powder, vanilla, and salt on medium speed until smooth, using a flexible spatula to scrape down bowl and beater as needed, about 1 minute. Increase the speed to high, then gradually add heavy cream until mixture is smooth and medium-stiff peaks form, 5 to 6 minutes. (Alternatively, frosting can be prepared in a large bowl with an electric hand mixer.)

Using a flexible spatula or offset spatula, spread frosting over cooled cake. Refrigerate until chilled and set, about 1 hour.

Special Equipment

10- by 15-inch rimmed baking sheet, small saucepan, whisk, toothpick or cake tester, pastry brush, stand mixer or electric hand mixer, flexible spatula or offset spatula 

Notes

Be sure to use bottled Guinness Extra Stout Beer, which has less water, more concentrated roasted barley flavor, and residual sugar than the Guinness Draft Stout sold in cans. If you can’t find any Guinness Extra Stout, Dragon Stout or Left Hand Brewery Milk Stout both have a similar flavor profile and would be good substitutes.

If using a 9- by 13-inch baking pan, you may have to increase baking time by 3 to 5 minutes. 

Dark brown sugar can be substituted for granulated sugar in both the cake and syrup, which will give the dessert deeper caramel notes.

Make-Ahead and Storage

The cake can be baked up to 1 day in advance;once cooled, wrap cake in plastic and store at room temperature. The syrup can be made up to 3 days in advance and refrigerated in an airtight container. The frosting can be made up to 3 days in advance and refrigerated in an airtight container; re-whip in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment or in a large bowl using an electric mixer before spreading over cake.

The frosted cake can be loosely covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for 2 to 3 days.

Across the world, the spirit of Ramadan is not only marked by fasting, but also comforting rituals involving food: shared, savored, and steeped in tradition. This can be observed in simple universal practices like breaking fast at sundown with a sweet date before tucking into the Iftar meal with loved ones. In Jordan, we enjoy sipping “amar el deen,” a thick apricot juice garnished with nuts and dried fruits. Fattoush salad is nearly obligatory in Jordan, gracing the table almost every evening. For me, though, one Ramadan dish stands above the rest: qatayef (pronounced atayef in my colloquial Arabic). 

These yeasted pancakes are cooked on a flattop griddle or in a skillet until golden on one side, with light air pockets throughout. They are most commonly served two ways. The first is qatayef asafiri, a non-fried version filled with a clotted cream called qishta. The second version, which this recipe is for, is referred to simply as qatayef. After being cooked on the griddle or skillet, they're filled with cheese or spiced walnuts and raisins, folded into a crescent shape, and fried until crispy and golden. The little crescents—a symbol of the lunar phase marking the start of Ramadan—are then immediately dipped in orange blossom syrup right before serving. 

Both versions are beloved and consumed all across the Levant, and in Jordan, qatayef is even more popular than qatayef asafiri. The fried version of qatayef is rich with subtle floral notes. The first bite into the crunchy exterior releases a gush of syrup, exposing a luscious cheese or nut filling. 

During Ramadan, bakeries hum with activity, churning out qatayef nonstop for customers. Traditionally you purchase the griddled pancakes from the bakery, then fill and fry them yourself at home. The sweet, heady, and slightly woodsy aromas of those lightly fermented pancakes fill the streets surrounding the bakeries. Some bakeries, due to high demand and restricted by small kitchens, will drag a giant flattop to the storefront (where there’s more space) so that two or more bakers can dedicate entire shifts to cooking and packaging the little pancakes in tightly sealed containers.

The Qatayef 

Before diving into the testing process for this recipe, I did what I always do for Levantine dishes—I ran to Mom. I left her a voice note on WhatsApp, filled with excitement about finally getting to work on a recipe that I’ve wanted to develop for a long time. I was expecting her to match my excitement, but she instead replied, “Don’t bother—only professional bakers can perfect qatayef.” She went on about a recent tiff with my aunt, who dared to make qatayef from scratch, claiming hers were superior to the store-bought ones. My mom’s response to my aunt’s finished qatayef? A lackluster shrug.

After a brief pause to process the unexpected—though perhaps slightly expected—response, I quickly fired back, explaining that qatayef in bakeries are made with the same simple ingredients you’ll find in every household. Aside from a flattop griddle and a saucer to pour the batter—easily replicated with a nonstick skillet and any measuring cup—no special equipment is required. 

Unless these professional bakers have some higher powers, there’s no reason I couldn’t perfect making them at home. Suddenly, what started as an exciting assignment turned into an exercise in gaining my mother’s approval. Mom kept insisting: “Where are the tight pockets? Homemade qatayef don’t have those tiny pockets!” The pockets, as she called them, are the very small holes that bubble to the surface of qatayef. So, I had no choice but to get those damn pockets right. 

In my mother’s defense, chasing the revered pockets was indeed a challenge. Properly made qatayef are meant to be spongy and covered in many tiny holes on one side, and feature what is known as the "zunnar"—meaning "belt" in Arabic—a pale ring encircling the golden qatayef on the other side. When poured onto a sufficiently hot flattop griddle or skillet, the batter naturally spreads outward. The thinner edges lose moisture rapidly, drying out and lifting slightly from the pan, which keeps them from browning. Meanwhile, the center remains thicker and retains moisture longer, staying in contact with the heat and turning a golden color—this is the zunnar effect. 

Unlike American pancakes, qatayef don’t get flipped; they cook on one side, allowing the surface to set while the bottom gently turns golden. For this to happen, the batter needs to rest properly, allowing the flour and semolina to fully absorb the water and loosen into a smoother mixture that spreads evenly and is fluid enough to cook through quickly. Resting also gives the yeast time to produce gas, aerating the batter and creating those signature teeny-tiny "pockets" as the batter  cooks.

After determining the correct ratio of water to flour to achieve a batter that wasn’t too thin or too thick, I settled on the right balance of flour to semolina to achieve a slightly firm, chewy, and moist texture. Semolina, being coarser than all-purpose flour, excels at absorbing liquid due to its larger granules, helping to retain moisture and create a more substantial texture.

Now the quest for the little pockets could begin. Batch after batch yielded qatayef with too few and overly large perforations, making them feel more like regular pancakes and less spongy than they should be. After countless voice notes and photos sent to my mom in Jordan, I finally got a clue about what might be going wrong. Most recipes suggest letting the batter rest at room temperature for about 30 minutes until it becomes bubbly, as this is when the magic happens. However, after rounds of testing I realized that the yeast needs more time to fully rise and create the proper airy texture. Letting the batter rest for one to two hours (depending on your kitchen’s temperature) allows the yeast to ferment gradually and create a spongy texture with the right amount of air pockets and fine perforations. Nevertheless, my qatayef were still not exactly where I wanted them to be.

In an attempt to further enhance the texture, I blended the batter a second time briefly right before cooking to incorporate even more air into it, creating even more tiny holes. Baking soda, added after the lengthy rest and right before reblending the batter, ensures that more gas is released as soon as the qatayef start cooking, contributing to a perfect rise and a spongy texture.

After pouring the first portion into my hot skillet—making sure to pour all the batter at once to avoid uneven cooking—I watched, eyes locked, as little bubbles slowly emerged. They began forming at the edges and crept toward the center, little by little, until no wet batter remained. I lifted the pancake, staring, wondering if I was seeing things. I couldn’t believe it—but here they finally were, the coveted tight and tiny pockets.

The Fillings

The two most common qatayef fillings are cheese, and walnuts with raisins and cinnamon. Usually, both variations are served together on a platter, with people guessing which is which based on subtle color differences (walnut-filled qatayef take on a slightly darker hue). This recipe includes both filling options, with each filling recipe yielding enough for eight qatayef. If you’d like to make both, simply halve each filling recipe to prepare four of each. Alternately, you can double the batter and syrup recipes and make a full batch with each filling. 

The walnut-raisin filling is a comforting, cinnamon-forward mixture with a small splash of orange blossom water added for a delicate aromatic note. The cheese filling is traditionally made with Nabulsi cheese, a slightly chewy and rubbery mild cheese, typically studded with nigella seeds. 

Since it's often sold in a salty brine, it must be is soaked in multiple changes of water to remove excess salt before being used. I prefer to remove the nigella seeds before chopping the cheese, but a few stragglers are fine. It is sometimes flavored with a touch of mastic gum, a tree resin with a piney, woodsy flavor commonly used in Arabic desserts. Nabulsi cheese is available at many Middle Eastern markets, but if it's unavailable, fresh mozzarella cheese (the kind that’s sold packed in water) works well as a substitute—and it doesn’t require the lengthy soak. 

The Syrup

Arabic desserts often include ingredients that seem to come from enchanted gardens—resin from mastic trees, orange blossom water, rose water, and flour made from orchid tubers, to name a few. Fantastical as they may sound, these ingredients are essential to many signature desserts.

The syrup for qatayef is thick and flavored with orange blossom water, which lends a floral aroma and subtle citrusy notes reminiscent of orange rinds. Some versions include rose water, but I find its perfume-y quality polarizing and prefer the delicate touch of orange blossom water instead. A very small splash of lemon juice adds a welcome brightness to the syrup.

Adding the lemon juice and orange blossom water too early can cause their delicate aromas to evaporate, but adding them after the syrup is finished cooking can cause crystallization by adding the cooler liquids to the hot syrup, creating a temperature shock and disturbing the sugar’s structure. The best approach is to stir them in near the end and let the syrup simmer for about 30 seconds. The syrup should be warm before the fried qatayef are dunked into it to ensure better absorption.

Finding Qatayef Success

After my final tests were complete, I proudly sent a new batch of photos of my qatayef to my mom, who responded with such delight and grand excitement. There was simply no denying it: She confessed they looked exactly like the ones she buys at the store, and the photos made her crave qatayef so badly that she rushed to a bakery to buy some. The classic mother-daughter food story often leans into the melodramatic trope of maternal wisdom—where the mother gently takes her daughter’s hand, guiding her through multi-generational recipes, etc, etc... But sometimes, it’s not all that romantic. While we certainly shared sweet moments over food, sometimes it was simply a quest for approval—one pocket at a time.

For the Cheese Filling: If using Nabulsi cheese, rinse and drain cheese: In a large bowl, submerge Nabulsi cheese with 1 inch boiling water. Let soak for 1 1/2 hours, changing with fresh boiling water once halfway through soaking. Alternatively, place cheese in large bowl, cover with room temperature water by 1 inch, and let soak for at least 8 hours or up to 14 hours, changing water once every two hours for the first 8 hours. Using fine-mesh strainer, drain cheese well, squeezing out excess water, and finely chop it. If using fresh mozzarella cheese, omit soaking and draining and just finely chop cheese. In a bowl, combine cheese with mastic gum, if using.

For the Walnut-Raisin Filling: In a small bowl, combine walnuts, raisins, sugar, cinnamon, orange blossom water, and salt.

For the Qatayef Batter: In a large bowl, whisk flour, semolina, sugar, yeast, salt, and water. Cover with plastic wrap and allow batter to sit at room temperature until mixture is bubbly and foamy with a watery ring appearing around edges, 1 1/2 to 2 hours (depending on kitchen’s temperature).

For the Syrup: While qatayef batter sits, in a small saucepan, combine sugar and water, and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook, adjusting heat as needed to maintain a simmer and stirring occasionally, until syrup reduces to about 3/4 cup and thickens until it coats back of a spoon, about 8 minutes. Stir in orange blossom water and lemon juice and continue tosimmer for 30 more seconds; set aside.

For Cooking the Qatayef: Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside. When ready to cook, in a blender or using an immersion blender, add baking soda to rested batter and blend until combined. Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until a splash of water beads and sizzles on contact, about 3 minutes. Wipe off any remaining water, then reduce heat to medium-low. Using a 2 tablespoon (1/8 cup) measuring cup filled to the top or a 1/4 cup measuring cup filled halfway, pour three 2 tablespoon portions of batter into skillet, letting each portion spread into a circle approximately 4 inches in diameter, leaving space between each pancake to prevent them from sticking. Cook until batter is dry on top and undersides are golden (small holes will start forming around the edges almost immediately and will gradually spread across the qatayef), 1 to 2 minutes. Do not flip qatayef during cooking. Transfer qatayef to prepared baking sheet. Cover with clean kitchen towel to prevent qatayef from drying. Repeat with remaining batter, lowering heat if qatayef start to get too dark. You should have 8 qatayef total. If not using right away, let cool, then cover qatayef tightly with plastic wrap and set aside at room temperature for up to 3 hours.

To Fill Qatayef: Place about 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon of either cheese or walnut-raisin filling in center of the bubbly side of each qatayef. Fold qatayef over itself and pinch the top middle edges together to seal, then continue pinching along the edges to close completely to form a half-moon shape. Use fingers to keep the filling from spilling out. Ensure edges are thoroughly sealed. Return to prepared baking sheet when filled.

For Frying the Qatayef: Set a wire rack inside a rimmed baking sheet and line rack with a double layer of paper towels. In a large Dutch oven, fill with oil to measure 1 1/2 inches deep and heat over medium-high heat to 350°F (177°C). Meanwhile, gently reheat syrup over medium-low heat until warm to the touch; place in medium bowl and set aside.

Once oil reaches temperature, carefully add qatayef to hot oil, and fry, using a spider skimmer or slotted spoon to flip qatayef halfway through, until golden brown on both sides, about 2 minutes total. Transfer qatayef to prepared wire rack and use a slotted spoon to immediately dunk them into the syrup until they're soaked through, about 30 seconds, flipping qatayef midway through. Transfer dipped qatayef to serving platter and top with pistachios, if using. Serve.

Special Equipment

Kitchen scale, fine-mesh strainer, rimmed baking sheet, small saucepan, large nonstick skillet, wire rack, Dutch oven, Spider skimmer or slotted spoon 

Notes

This recipe can easily be doubled.

The two most common qatayef fillings are cheese, and walnuts with raisins and cinnamon. Usually, both variations are served together on a platter. This recipe includes both filling options, with each filling recipe written to make enough for 8 qatayef. If you’d like to make both, halve each filling recipe to prepare 4 of each, or double the number of qatayef and the amount of syrup.

For the cheese filling, make sure to taste the Nabulsi cheese after soaking, as its salt content can vary. A hint of remaining salt in the cheese is desirable, but if it’s still too salty after soaking, change the water again and soak it longer. I prefer to remove the nigella seeds before chopping the cheese, but a few stragglers are fine.

Orange blossom water can be purchased from Middle Eastern grocery stores or ordered online. It  also can be found at some American grocery stores. 

Mastic gum is often sold as crystals and can be purchased from Middle Eastern grocery stores or ordered online. The small crystals can be chopped into a powder with a chef's knife. I recommend adding a pinch of sugar while chopping the crystals to prevent sticking. You can also grind the crystals in a spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle, but be sure to add a pinch of sugar to keep it from turning into a gummy paste. 

Make-Ahead and Storage

Qatayef can be filled and shaped, then frozen for up to 2 months. Spread on a parchment paper–lined baking sheet and freeze until solid, then transfer to a zip-top bag or airtight container. To cook, thaw in the refrigerator for at least 2 and up to 4 hours, then fry according to the recipe’ instructions. They can also be fried directly from frozen, but you’ll need to increase frying time by about 1 minute.