Baklava is indispensable to the Persian culinary landscape, just as it is to other baklava-loving cultures from Armenia and Azerbaijan to Lebanon and Syria and over to Turkey and Greece. The most common iterations of traditional baklava feature layers of buttery phyllo dough and nuts drenched in simple syrup or honey. And if you are a fan of traditional baklava—regardless of the cultural origin of the particular iteration—you will likely agree with me that the process of making this crunchy and nutty dessert is a bit involved, and can be intimidating to make for those less acquainted.

But this Persian baklava–inspired cake—a confection that’s well known throughout the Persian diaspora—is a great way to enjoy the best qualities of baklava, within a simpler-to-prepare cake. While this rich, dense, syrupy cake is less complicated to prepare than baklava, it still delivers the aromas, flavors, textures, and appearance that should satisfy most baklava lovers. Infused with the warm, fragrant notes of saffron, cardamom, and rose water, this cake is a true indulgence. 

The famous British culinary personality Nigella Lawson once said, “no one with any self-respect is a same-day trifle maker.” Along the lines of Nigella Lawson's assertion about trifles, I must emphasize that Persian baklava cake, too, requires a lengthy soak to reach its full potential. As the syrup penetrates the cake, it creates a symphony of textures and flavors that is unparalleled. So, for the ultimate baklava cake experience, plan to make it a day before serving.

A Bit of Background About Persian Baklava and Baklava Cake

Etymologists trace the English word "baklava" to the Ottoman Turkish word باقلوا which is also identical in Persian and pronounced bāghlavā. The word entered English in the mid-17th century. Persians have two names for this cake. One translates to "baklava cake" and another that translates to "syrupy cake," referring to the cake having been slathered heavily with an aromatic sugary syrup.

Even within Iran, baklava varies from region to region, but the most famous and popular ones are from the city of Yazd in central Iran. Yazd is famous for its sweets, and its confectioneries are well known not only to Iranians across the entire country but also to tourists visiting Iran. This Persian baklava cake produces a rich, dense, syrupy cake that mimics the look and flavor of Yazd-style baklava.

There are three key characteristics that set traditional Persian baklava apart from other types of baklavas: its pastry dough, its nut filling, and its syrup. The pastry dough used to make traditional Persian baklava is thicker than the phyllo used in Greek-style baklava and the yufka dough used for Turkish-style baklava. Instead of a dozen or so layers of phyllo or yufka, only two layers of the thicker dough are used to make Persian baklava. 

The variety of nuts used for the filling in traditional Persian baklava and baklava cake is somewhat similar to those of Greek-style and Turkish-style baklava—some combination of pistachios, almonds, and walnuts—but in Iran, the nuts are ground to a much finer grade and are packed much more densely. The syrup used to make Persian baklava is made with saffron, cardamom, and rose water, resulting in a more complex and aromatic sweet compared to Greek or Turkish versions.

Key Ingredients for the Baklava Cake

In order to partially replicate the crumbly texture and nutty flavor of Persian baklava, this cake uses finely ground almonds and pistachios in the cake batter. You have several options for acquiring your finely ground nuts. You can grind your own nuts by starting with whole (or slivered) blanched almonds and whole shelled raw or toasted pistachios. Using a large food processor, pulse the nuts until finely ground, stirring a couple of times to prevent them from turning into a paste—it is OK if a few larger pieces remain.

Alternatively, you can purchase already finely ground almonds and pistachios. For almonds, you can purchase almond meal or almond flour—now readily available in most well stocked grocery stores. For finely ground pistachios, your best bet is to order from online sources. Your final option is to use a bit of elbow grease and grind your whole nuts by hand either with a large old-fashioned mortar and pestle or with a rolling pin with the nuts in a plastic bag.

This recipe calls for cardamom in two different forms: whole cardamom seeds or pods for the syrup and finely ground cardamom for the batter. The ground cardamom is incorporated into the dry ingredients to ensure uniform distribution throughout the cake. While ground cardamom could go in the syrup, it would slightly darken the vibrant yellow hue imparted by the steeped saffron. To preserve the syrup's beautiful color, whole cardamom pods are used and removed before the cake is soaked.

The most common garnish for the cake is coarsely ground or slivered pistachios. Other popular garnish options include whole dried rose petals, crushed dried rose petals, and coconut flakes. You can also use a combination of pistachios and any of these.

3 Tips for Baking and Slicing the Cake

While my recipe is fairly simple to prepare, here are a few additional tips to ensure the cake is properly baked and easy to slices into bite-size pieces that look very similar to baklava. 

1. Use a 9 x 13-inch baking pan for baking, as this will yield an inch-thick cake—the same thickness as traditional Persian baklava.
2. This cake is traditionally cut into one and a half– to two-inch bite-size squares or diamond-shaped pieces, and then placed on serving dishes. Because of the small size of the pieces, it is easier to cut the cake once it has been removed from the baking pan and placed on a cutting board. If you don’t have a cutting board large enough, you can invert the cake onto a piece of parchment paper set on the back of another rimmed baking sheet.
3. Since the cake is a bit crumbly, it’s easier to achieve cleaner cut edges by cutting the cake after it has been soaked with half of the syrup. The cake at this stage is moistened enough so that fewer crumbs will flake away while slicing. The rest of the syrup is incorporated after the cake has been cut into pieces, which ensures more of the flavorful syrup soaks into the exposed cut edges and is better absorbed into the cake. 

Serving Suggestions

Once the cake is cut into squares or diamonds and garnished, the resulting bite-size pieces are often arranged on a serving dish or a platter and brought to the table for guests to help themselves.

Whether served as an afternoon snack, as an after-meal sweet ending, or for welcoming guests to one’s home, this sweet floral cake pairs beautifully with a hot cup of black tea.

Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C). Lightly grease bottom and sides of a 9 x 13-inch baking pan and line bottom of pan with parchment paper; set aside.

In a small mixing bowl, stir together yogurt, rose water, and steeped liquid saffron.

In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together all-purpose flour, almond flour, pistachio flour, baking powder, finely ground cardamom, and salt until thoroughly combined and lump-free.

In the bowl of stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whisk sugar and orange zest on low speed until zest is evenly distributed and sugar appears moistened and clumped, about 1 minute.

Add butter to sugar and orange zest mixture and mix on medium-low speed for until blended 1 minute. Increase speed to medium-high and whisk until pale and fluffy, about another 3 minutes, scraping down sides of bowl as needed.

Reduce mixer speed to low and add eggs, one at a time, scraping down bowl after each addition.

Add prepared yogurt mixture and mix at low speed until combined, about 1 minute.

Move mixing bowl from stand mixer to kitchen counter. With a silicone spatula, fold in one third of prepared flour mixture until partially mixed. Repeat with another third of flour mixture, then with remaining flour mixture; continue mixing with spatula until no streaks of dry ingredients remain. Batter will be very thick.

Scrape batter into prepared baking pan. Using an offset or silicone spatula, spread batter into a smooth even layer. Bake cake, rotating pan once halfway through baking, until golden brown, center feels firm when gently pressed, and a cake tester or toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean, about 45 minutes.

For the Syrup: While cake is baking, prepare syrup. In a 2-quart saucepan, combine all syrup ingredients and heat over medium-high stir until sugar is dissolved. Once mixture starts to boil, reduce heat to rapid simmer with soft bubbles, and simmer until mixture is reduced by half and its temperature has reached about 118-120°F (47-48°C), 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature. Remove and discard cardamom seeds or pods.

Once cake is baked, let it cool in the pan for about 15 minutes, then run a knife around edges of pan to loosen it. Invert a large cooling rack on the cake pan, then flip over the cooling rack and cake pan together. Using oven mitts or kitchen towels, gently lift and remove pan and parchment paper.

Cover a large cutting board with a sheet of fresh parchment paper. Re-invert cake onto parchment-covered cutting board. Use a toothpick or cake tester to poke holes all over cake’s surface. Using a pastry brush, liberally brush half of the syrup onto the cake while still warm. Let the cake cool completely, 3 to 4 hours.

With cake on parchment-covered cutting board, use a sharp knife to cut cake into bite-size diamonds or squares (about 1 1/2 inches x 1 1/2 inches). Leave cut cake on board. Brush remaining syrup onto cake. Be more liberal with syrup when brushing over the grooves made by the knife. At this stage, the cake can be garnished and served immediately. Or, for a fuller flavor, let cake sit for up to 24 hours before garnishing and serving. (I believe the cake is best when left to soak up the syrup for a longer period of time—as the syrup penetrates the cake, it enhances its flavor.)

For serving, garnish each bite-size piece with coarsely ground or slivered pistachios. Alternatively, garnish with any desired combination of pistachios and whole dried rose petals, crushed dried rose petals, or ground coconut flakes.

Variations

In addition to using pistachios and almonds, some Persian home cooks incorporate finely ground walnuts into the cake. As long as you have a total of 150 grams of ground nuts, any combination of pistachios, almonds, and walnuts will work.

 If you desire a thicker cake, replace the suggested 9 x 13–inch baking pan with a 9 x 9–inch square or a 10-inch round baking pan. The baking time should not be much different but always make sure the cake has developed a uniform golden-brown top before taking it out of the oven. 

 If you want to deviate a bit from the traditional bite-size square or diamond-shaped pieces, an attractive option is to bake the batter as if you were baking cupcakes. Using small fluted/flared cupcake liners (often used to make small brioche) makes it easier to take the baked mini cakes out of the liner, which in turn allows you to garnish the flat end of the mini cakes for a charming platter arrangement.

Special Equipment

 9 x 13–inch baking pan, stand mixer with whisk attachment, toothpick or cake tester, 2-quart saucepan, wire cooling rack, cutting board slightly larger than 9x13 (alternatively use the back of a baker’s half sheet), parchment paper, pastry brush.

Notes

It is best to grind saffron from threads as needed, which is most easily done with a stone mortar and pestle. Like many spices, saffron retains its flavor better in its whole (thread) form. Store-bought ground or powdered saffron if often dull and stale, or, worse, mixed with other ingredients as filler. While you likely don't have a kitchen scale that can reliably weigh a single gram of saffron, it is often sold by the gram in small containers. If, for example, you had a 2 g box of saffron, you would use half of those threads for the cake and half for the syrup.

For both the almonds and pistachios, you can grind your own nuts by starting with whole (or slivered) blanched almonds and whole shelled raw or toasted pistachios. Using a large food processor, pulse the nuts until finely ground, stirring a couple of times to prevent them from turning into a paste—it is OK if a few larger pieces remain.

Alternatively, you can purchase already finely ground almonds and pistachios. For almonds, you can purchase almond meal or almond flour—now readily available in most well stocked grocery stores. For finely ground pistachios, your best bet is to order from online sources unless you live near a Persian market.

Make-Ahead and Storage

The syrup for this cake can be made up to 2 weeks ahead and refrigerated in an airtight container. It is a lovely and versatile aromatic syrup with a beautiful golden color. I often make a large batch—the recipe for the syrup is very scalable—and keep it in a clear glass bottle in the door of my refrigerator. You can drizzle it on pancakes, put it on peanut butter sandwiches instead of jam, substitute it for honey, drip a bit on dark chocolate ice cream, use it to make lemonade, or replace simple syrup with it to jazz up your favorite cocktail. 

Leftovers, if there is such a thing with this cake, stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator will stay fresh for at least a week. Let them warm up to room temperature before serving. 

If you let the cake pieces sit on the kitchen counter uncovered, they will eventually dry out. Pulse the completely dried pieces in your food processor into a coarse breadcrumb-like mass. Sprinkle this on top of cakes, open-face peanut butter sandwiches, open-face bagel and cream cheese sandwiches, or a bowl of fruit cocktail to add a magical crunchy layer.

Gozney recently launched a much-anticipated portable pizza oven: the Tread. In the months leading up to its release, chatter on Reddit reached a crescendo, with speculation running rampant; there were even supposed “leaked” images, adding to the anticipation. 

And now, it’s finally here. A few months before it launched, I got my hands on a press sample of the Tread to test it out. I braved frigid New England winter days and nights and slung loads of pizza (and also roasted some chicken leg quarters) to see if this petite, portable oven was worth it.

The Tests

• Heating Speed Test: I timed how long it took the Gozney tread to hit 900°F using an infrared thermometer to take the temperature in the left, right, and center of the oven. 
• Portability Test: To test its portability, I packed up the pizza oven and stand, put them in my small car, and took them to my in-law's house 35 minutes away. 
• Neapolitan Pizza Test: I set up the pizza oven on the quadruped stand and made pepperoni and fig-ricotta Neapolitan pies. 
• Chicken Test: Since Gozney promises the Tread makes “more than pizza” I decided to roast chicken leg quarters in the oven, loosely following this recipe. 

What We Learned

The Gozney Tread Pizza Oven Gets Hot, Hot, Hot

When I baked the pizzas, the stone reached an incredible 980°F on average after about 30 minutes of preheating. Even after lowering the heat, I had to use the turning peel to deflect some of the heat from the arced flame, lest the pepperoni and puffy crusts char beyond recognition. The same thing happened during my heat speed test: The stone hit 962°F after a mere 25 minutes of preheating. 

The reason the oven gets super hot is likely its size: It’s compact (more on this below), so it takes way less time to come to temperature than, say, a 24-inch pizza oven. While this is a boon for making Neapolitan pizzas, which require intense heat to cook quickly, it does mean that if you want to branch out you’ll have to make adjustments and keep an eye on your food. When I roasted the chicken leg quarters, I had to cover them with aluminum foil and only do a quick broil at the end to prevent the skin from burning. However, the resulting chicken was perfectly cooked with crispy skin and tender meat, swimming in a puddle of golden schmaltz (which begged to be used to roast some potatoes). 

Let’s Talk Portability 

If you follow Gozney, you might notice that the Tread looks quite similar to two of its other ovens: the Arc and the Dome. It even has the same arc-shaped flame as the former. But the Tread, being portable, is significantly smaller and lighter. While the Arc has an internal diameter of around 15 inches, the Tread’s is closer to 12 inches. Since cooking space is tight, you’ll need to shape smaller pizzas. The Arc’s external dimensions are 19 by 22 by 13.5 inches, while the Tread’s are 16.5 by 19.1 by 12.6 inches—a lot smaller. Finally, the Tread is much lighter than the Arc: 29.7 pounds versus 47.5 pounds—nearly 18 pounds less. Its reduced dimensions and weight add to the Tread’s portability, as do the “racks” on top, which make it easy to grab and move. That being said, when packed in the Tread Venture bag, it was bulky and awkward to carry. While the case was great for protecting the oven during travel or in storage, it was much easier to lift the oven on its own. 

The Quadruped Stand Was an Interesting Design Choice 

My father-in-law is a carpenter, and one of his creations is a set of small stacking tables. The tables are tripods—that is, they have three legs. According to him, only having three points of contact ensures the tabletop sits evenly, even if it’s set somewhere uneven. So he was surprised that Gozney’s Venture stand (which you have to purchase separately) wasn’t a tripod and instead had four legs. I thought this was an interesting insight, though I didn’t have any issues with the oven wobbling when set on a deck or my sloping concrete driveway. The stand has a built-in level, and the legs are adjustable, so it was easy to tweak it so that it stood evenly.   

The Verdict

The Gozney Tread is a great portable pizza oven. It has a 12.4-inch wide opening and a 12.2-inch internal width, so it’s best for making smaller pizzas. The compact form was great for portability, and I particularly liked the racks on the top of the oven, which made it easy to lift and move.

While it shone making Neapolitan pizzas, it’s also versatile enough to cook up other dishes, like roasted chicken thighs or seared steak. The Gozney Tread does get ripping hot, so keep an eye on your pies (or other foods if you’re getting creative) and adjust the heat as needed. 

Is it worth it? Well, it depends on how much you think you’ll actually use it. Do you go camping often and like the idea of camp-side pizzas? Or maybe you want to show off your new pizza topping combos to friends and family—the Tread lets you bring the oven to them.

I’d be remiss not to mention that while the Tread is novel, other pizza ovens are just as good and just as portable: Take the Ooni Koda 12, for instance. It weighs 29 pounds—a little less than the Tread—and is a similar size. It’s also $100 less and heated up in a mere 15 minutes in our tests. While it’s not explicitly called a portable oven, for all intents and purposes, it is. That said, if you’re looking for a compact oven that’s easy to use and lug around, the Tread will likely make you happy. 

The Pros

Compact? Check. Fast? Check. Hot? Check. The Gozney Tread delivers on everything it promises. It excelled at making puffy-crusted Neapolitan pizzas fast, and it was easy to break down and transport. It cools off quickly, too. During my tests, I used the accompanying Venture peel and turning peel and highly recommend them, since they fit nicely inside the Tread’s narrow opening. It also impressed me (I admit, I was skeptical) with how it roasted chicken leg quarters—I could truly see myself hauling it to a campsite and using it to make more than just ‘za. 

The Cons

I wished that I could make the flame even smaller—as it was, even at its lowest setting, it was still quite strong. You’ll need a small turning peel and some skill at maneuvering pizzas since the cooking surface is very compact. Speaking of peels, it would’ve been nice if the Tread had hanging hooks for them. Also, the Tread is a similar size and weight to other smaller pizza ovens, like the Ooni Koda 12, but it costs more—$500 plus $250 for the stand. 

Key Specs

• External dimensions: 16.5 x 19.1 x 12.6 inches
• Internal dimensions: 12.2 x 15 x 5.9 inches
• Door size: 12.4 x 3.35 inches
• Weight: 29.7 pounds
• Warranty: 5 years

Why We’re the Experts

• Grace Kelly is a senior editor at Serious Eats, where she’s been testing kitchen gear for almost three years. 
• She used to test kitchen equipment at America’s Test Kitchen and has spent time as a bartender and line cook. 
• To test the Gozney Tread, Grace used it to make Neapolitan pizzas and roasted chicken leg quarters. She also tracked how quickly the stone hit 900°F. 
• Grace has tested a multitude of pizza ovens, including the Gozney Arc and Ooni Koda 2 Max. Her husband is an avid pizza maker (and eater) and has benefitted greatly from these tests. 
  

Every weekend in April, when asparagus is plentiful at the farmers market, I take bunches of it home, then spend the rest of the week eating through my haul: I grill it, braise it, toss it into salads, air-fry it, and turn it into soup. I especially love incorporating asparagus into frittatas and quiches—the vegetable has a sweet, grassy flavor that goes particularly well with eggs, dairy, and fresh herbs such as chives.

The recipe below comes from my Birmingham, Alabama-based test kitchen colleague Renu Dhar, who made multiple asparagus quiches to come up with one that was delicious and elegant, but still simple to throw together. Filled with tender asparagus and creamy goat cheese, it’s a stellar vegetarian quiche that can easily be made ahead for a delightful weekday lunch or a celebratory brunch for Easter and other spring holidays. Here’s how to make it.

Getting the Crust for Your Quiche Right

The crust, a flaky pâte brisée, is a riff on Serious Eats contributor Rebecca Frey's French all-butter tart dough recipe. Instead of making the crust by hand, as Frey does, Dhar pulses everything together in a food processor, making light work of an otherwise messy and arduous task. Adequately chilling the dough helps the gluten relax, reducing shrinkage as the crust bakes, and keeping the dough as cold as possible helps the butter stay firm. As the crust bakes, the butter melts, creating tiny pockets of steam that set into satisfyingly crisp layers. To help maintain the crust’s flaky texture, we line the rolled dough with parchment paper and fill it with pie weights, beans, or rice and then par-bake it. This is a crucial step that cooks it thoroughly and prevents it from becoming soggy once filled with the custard.

Skip the Blanch

While many asparagus quiche recipes call for blanching the vegetable, Dhar’s testing revealed that blanching made for an excessively moist filling. For asparagus that doesn't sog the quiche and is also more flavorful, she broils it until it’s browned and crisp-tender. The high heat causes the Maillard reaction; this occurs when heat transforms proteins and sugars in your food, resulting in more complex flavors and aromas.

Triple the Dairy, Please

Three kinds of dairy star in this quiche alongside asparagus: cheese, heavy cream, and whole milk. While Dhar’s recipe calls for creamy goat cheese and Gruyère, you could easily use feta, Parmigiano-Reggiano, or Pecorino Romano in place of either or both of those cheeses. Using both heavy cream and whole milk in the filling produces a rich, silky custard. Just be sure to thoroughly whisk the filling together to ensure the custard is homogenous to prevent unsightly specks of egg white throughout the quiche. But if the spots of egg whites appear, not to worry. The quiche will still be delicious, which is really the most important thing.

For the Crust: In the bowl of a food processor, pulse flour, sugar, and salt until combined, about 3 pulses. Scatter butter over top of flour mixture, and pulse until mixture resembles coarse crumbs, 8 to 10 pulses. Add ice water, 1 tablespoon at a time, and pulse until mixture starts to clump together, about 8 pulses total. (You may not need all the water.) Transfer onto a lightly floured surface, and gently press until dough just comes together, 2 or 3 times. Flatten dough into a 6-inch disk. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate until firm, at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours.

Adjust oven rack to middle position, and preheat oven to 350°F (175ºC). On a lightly floured work surface, roll out dough into a 12-inch round. Carefully transfer to a 9-inch pie plate. Press dough into bottom and up sides of pie plate. Using scissors, trim excess dough, leaving a 1-inch overhang. Fold overhang over itself to create a thick border that sits on top edge of pie plate; crimp or shape as desired. Freeze until firm, about 30 minutes.

Line the pie crust with parchment paper, and fill with pie weights, dried beans, or uncooked rice. Bake until edges are just dry and set, about 20 minutes. Remove the parchment and pie weights; continue to bake until light golden brown, about 15 minutes. Remove from the oven, and set aside.

For the Filling: Increase oven temperature to broil. Cut asparagus tips into 2-inch-long pieces; slice stalks into 1/4-inch rounds. On a 13- by 18-inch rimmed baking sheet, toss asparagus, oil, and 1/4 teaspoon salt together. Roast until asparagus is browned on edges and crisp-tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Let asparagus stand until cool, about 5 minutes. Remove asparagus tips; set aside. Reduce oven temperature to 350°F (175ºC).

Place goat cheese, Gruyère, and roasted asparagus stalks in bottom of pie crust. In a medium bowl, whisk cream, milk, eggs, chives, pepper, garlic powder, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt to combine; pour over asparagus mixture in crust. Top with reserved asparagus tips. Bake until filling registers 170°F (77°C) on an instant-read thermometer and edges of filling are set but the center still jiggles slightly, 35 to 40 minutes. (If crust becomes too brown before center is set, loosely cover crust edges with aluminum foil, .) Let cool for at least 30 minutes, and serve.

Special Equipment

Food processor; rolling pin; 9-inch pie plate; scissors; parchment paper; pie weights, dried beans, or uncooked rice; 13- by 18-inch rimmed baking sheet; instant-read thermometer

Make-Ahead and Storage

The crust can be blind-baked up to 2 days in advance. Once cooled, wrap crust tightly in plastic wrap and store at room temperature.

Once cooled, the finished quiche can be wrapped tightly in plastic and refrigerated for up to 3 days. Before serving, let quiche come to room temperature, then gently reheat in a 325°F (165°C) oven until warmed through.

Walk inside any Chilean bakery on a Saturday or Sunday morning and you will smell the unmistakable sweet and savory aroma of empanadas de pino coming fresh out of the oven. The scent of slow-cooked caramelized onions; the subtle hint of cumin and ají de color (the local mild, slightly sweet paprika); the sassy, spicy aroma of the ones made con picante, a little hot; all of it accompanied by the always comforting smell of baked dough. 

Bigger in size and more generous in filling than most of their South American counterparts, one empanada de pino counts as a weekday lunch or as a weekend appetizer that's commonly served before typical lengthy Chilean barbecue parties. Eat two of them and a nap might be in order.

The combo of the hearty filling and crust is potent. The dough is high in fat and rich with egg. When rolled thin, it is sturdy enough to contain at least a half cup of pino (pino comes from the indigenous Mapuche word for "filling" or "stew"). The juicy and substantial filling is made with diced (or sometimes ground) beef, onions, cumin, ají de color, and sometimes ají Chileano (Chilean hot sauce). To complete the filling, a whole black olive, a few raisins, and a quarter of a boiled egg is tucked inside each pastry. 

Although we Chileans eat empanadas all year round, and in all sorts of situations—from daycare picnics to workplace gatherings—during the independence day festivities on September 18th, we go absolutely wild about them. During those days I’d guess every Chilean quadruples their empanada intake. And those who can actually make empanadas become the most beloved and exhausted member of their families. Yes, that is me.

The Empanada Dough Is Just as Important as the Filling

Before the pandemic, my husband and I lived in Copenhagen for a few years. September was the time of year when we most missed home (and Chilean food), as September 18 is Chilean Independence Day, a celebration involving the consumption of dozens of empanadas de pino. My homesickness instilled in me a profound need to make empanadas while living abroad.

Around the same time, my abuelita (grandma) Techy—whose empanadas were famous—passed away. After shedding many tears, I decided to make—for the first time—dozens of empanadas, using her recipe for empanada dough.

My abuelita’s recipe for empanada dough, which she learned as a child from her grandma, is the same I share below. The wheat-based, high-fat empanada dough is not merely an efficient container for a flavorful filling—it is just as important as the filling inside. I have tried other empanada dough recipes that use less fat or fewer eggs, as well as recipes that don’t have you take the time and care to stretch the dough while it's still warm. None are as wonderful as my abuelita’s recipe. Her empanada dough is slightly salty, rich, and supple enough to be stretched thin without tearing, and sturdy enough to not leak any juicy filling while baking.

Temperature control is key for these empanadas. You must keep the dough warm and pliable, and at the same time keep the filling cold. Making the dough with hot water and hot melted fat makes it easier to work with. If the dough becomes too cold before shaping, it will stiffen up, making folding and pinching the dough challenging. If you are making dough ahead of time, even freezing it, there are ways to ensure that it is perfectly warm and soft before assembling empanadas. To keep the dough warm, try my late Abuelita’s trick: Keep the covered dough in a bowl on an inverted lid of a stockpot half full of simmering water. 

The Beef Stew Filling

Making the filling is a simpler process than creating the perfect dough. To achieve proper browning while not overcooking the beef, I start by browning diced beef, then removing it from the pot and deglazing with the stock or broth before sautéing the onions, fat, aromatics, and spices, including Chilean ají de color and cumin, until the flavors meld and the onions are soft. The beef is then returned much later in the cooking process ensuring that it won’t overcook and dry out.

A perfect Chilean empanada should be juicy and even drip down your wrist—but only once you’ve taken the first bite, not before. It is common for empanadas to leak juices while baking—one of the keys to preventing this is keeping the filling very cold during assembly so the filling doesn't boil while baking and bubble out. Chilling the beef mixture in the refrigerator for about an hour and then parfreezing it briefly for 15 to 30 minutes before assembling helps ensure they will not leak. If the filling becomes warm while shaping, chill in the freezer while assembling.

Shaping the Empanadas 

Proper shaping of the empanadas is important not just for creating an attractive presentation, but also to ensure the empanadas stay sealed when baking, so the filling’s juices won’t leak out. There are a few key steps to ensure the empanadas hold their shape. First, brush the dough edges with milk before folding it over to seal shut. Wetting the dough helps glue it together. 

Once the dough is sealed, fold the dough edge inward towards the body of the empanada. This further enforces the seal. Lastly, don’t forget to cut or poke steam vents on top of each pastry. This will allow steam to release from inside as they cook, so the dough will not bubble up or lose its shape as it cooks.

Enjoy these empanadas de pino as we do in Chile: Still hot, by hand, perhaps with a small tumbler of a simple, medium-bodied Chilean red wine.

For the Beef Filling: In a large stainless steel skillet, cast iron skillet or wok, heat 1 tablespoon oil over high heat until shimmering. Add half the diced beef, distributing it in an even layer and cook without stirring until juicy on top and browned underneath, about 3 minutes. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and a 1/8 teaspoon pepper, then use a wooden spoon to stir to release beef from bottom of skillet. Transfer beef to a medium bowl. Repeat with 1 tablespoon oil, remaining beef, remaining 1 teaspoon salt, and remaining 1/8 teaspoon pepper.

Remove now-empty pot from heat, add 2 cups broth, and use a wooden spoon to scrape to release any remaining browned bits into liquid. Transfer liquid to a bowl or measuring cup and set aside.

Return pot to medium heat and heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil until shimmering. Add onion and cook, stirring often, until softened, 7 to 10 minutes. Add ají de color, cumin, and hot sauce (if using). Season with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper, and cook, stirring until fragrant, about 1 minute.

Add flour into onion mixture and cook, using a wooden spoon to stir frequently until no lumps remain, about 2 minutes. Stir in reserved liquid, reserved browned beef and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until liquid is reduced by half and onions are completely soft, 10 to 12 minutes. Season with salt to taste, if needed.

Transfer prepared pino to a shallow baking dish or bowl and let cool at room temperature slightly, about 20 minutes, then refrigerate until completely chilled, about 1 hour (see notes).

For the Empanada Dough: In a small saucepan, heat butter and lard or shortening over medium heat until melted and hot and just starting to bubble.

In a large mixing bowl, thoroughly whisk together flour, salt, and baking powder. Make a well in center of flour mixture and add half of the hot water, half of the melted hot fat mixture, and half of the eggs. Using a wooden spoon, stir vigorously until combined and small lumps form. Add remaining water, fat mixture, eggs, and pisco and stir vigorously until a rough dough ball forms and separates from the sides of bowl.

Transfer dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead by hand until smooth, and still warm, about 3 minutes.

Wrap dough with plastic wrap and let rest at room temperature for 15 minutes.

To Assemble: When ready to assemble the empanadas, transfer pino stew to freezer until firm, 15 to 30 minutes. Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 475°F (245°C). Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper.

While pino par-freezes,cut dough into 12 equal pieces (4 1/2 ounces; 125 g each). Working with 1 piece of dough at a time , dust dough piece lightly with flour and roll into a ball on a lightly floured work surface. Using a rolling pin, roll into a 8 1/2-inch (21-22cm) round. Do not worry if disc is not perfectly round; edges will be trimmed later. (While rolling each piece of dough, keep remaining dough pieces covered and warm; see notes.)

In lower center half of dough round, place 1/4 boiled egg, 1 olive, 2 raisins, and 1/2 cup (about 3 1/2 ounces; 100g )pino stew. Using pastry brush, lightly brush outer 1-inch edge of dough round with milk. Fold dough over filling (without stretching the dough), pressing gently on the border to seal the edges. It should look like a half moon. Don’t worry if some air is trapped inside, as empanadas will be pricked before baking.

Using a pasta wheel or pizza cutter, trim excess dough to form a 3/4-inch (2cm) dough border. Lightly brush milk over sealed edge.

Using your fingers, make 3 folds of the dough border inward towards the filling: 2 from the corners towards the sides of the empanada on a 75°– 80° angle towards the center, and then 1 in the center, to close the empanada. Folds should slightly overlap. Using your index finger, press firmly in the corners where foldings meet. Repeat with remaining dough pieces and filling.

Arrange the empanadas on the prepared sheets, spacing them at least 1 inch apart. Re-whisk egg wash to recombine and brush empanadas with egg wash. Using a toothpick or tip of paring knife, prick tops of empanadas 3 to 4 times for ventilation.

Bake one sheet tray at a time, rotating once halfway through, until golden brown, 12 to 14 minutes. Transfer the baking sheet to a cooling rack and repeat with remaining baking sheet. Let empanadas cool for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.

Special Equipment

Kitchen scale, rolling pin, pasta wheel cutter or pizza cutter, pastry brush, bench scraper

Notes

Chilean hot sauce, known as ají Chileano can be found at some Latin grocers or purchased online. I recommend JB Ají Chileno brand.

Look for a salty and mild variety of black olive, such as Nyons, Niçoise, or Liguirian.

It is common for empanadas to leak juices while baking, resulting in a drier empanada. However, this can be avoided by keeping the filling very cold during assembly, so it doesn't reach a boil when baking. Chilling the pino stew in the freezer for 15 to 30 minutes before assembling ensures the empanadas will not leak. If the filling becomes warm, chill in the freezer while assembling. 

It is important to keep the empanada dough warm and malleable for easier shaping. To keep the dough warm, try my late Abuelita’s trick: Keep the covered dough in a bowl on an inverted lid of a stockpot half full of simmering water.

Make-Ahead and Storage 

The beef and onion filling (pino stew) can be made ahead and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 days or frozen for up to 2 months.

The empanada dough can be refrigerated, wrapped in plastic wrap or in a resealable bag, for up to 3 days. Alternatively the dough can be cut into 12 portions, shaped into rounds, wrapped individually in plastic wrap and frozen for up to 2 months. 

Leftover baked empanadas can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 day or frozen for up to 1 month. Reheat on a sheet tray in a 350°F (175°C) oven until warmed through, 5 to 10 minutes or for 20 to 25 minutes from frozen.

My husband jokes that he doesn't bother asking me what I want for dinner anymore, because my answer is always the same: vegetables. That is especially true during the spring and summer, when alliums, fresh herbs, and green vegetables are abundant. As the weather warms up, I begin swapping hearty soups and stews for crisp salads starring short-lived seasonal ingredients. Ramps, asparagus, peas, and lettuces make their way into all our meals, giving salads, pastas, and eggs a bright pop of flavor. Below, you'll find an assortment of refreshing spring salads—including a tangy pea and preserved olive salad and a Roman-inspired mixed green salad—that are light and bright, and sure to chase the winter blues away.

Spring Vegetable and Arugula Salad With Labne and Cucumbers

The secret to throwing a delicious salad at a moment's notice is keeping an assortment of blanched vegetables ready to go. For the easiest salad, toss blanched spring vegetables, salted cucumbers, and red onions in a punchy dressing of lemon juice, mustard, and olive oil, then pile it onto a bed of rich, tangy labneh.

Roasted Oyster Mushroom and Watercress Salad

Pair pan-roasted oyster mushrooms with watercress—a peppery spring green that is satisfyingly substantial in its own right—with a healthy helping of shaved cheese for a robust spring salad.

Fattoush (Chopped Vegetable and Pita Salad)

Packed with crunchy vegetables, toasted pita, and halloumi, this vibrant salad from Serious Eats contributor Reem Kassis is a star in its own right. It's light and refreshing, and a dressing made with lemon juice and pomegranate molasses brings bold, tart flavor.

Salade Lyonnaise (French Bistro Salad)

This staple bistro salad of Lyon features bitter greens tossed in a warm vinaigrette and is topped with chewy lardons and a gooey poached egg. Cooking the bacon over moderately low heat prevents it from burning, and sautéing the shallots in hot bacon fat mellows out the allium's sharpness.

Pea, Olive, and Preserved Lemon Salad

This easy salad from Serious Eats contributor Nargisse Benkabbou combines sweet peas with briny olives and tangy preserved lemon—and takes just 15 minutes to make.

Roman-Inspired Mixed-Green Salad (Misticanza alla Romana)

The onset of warmer weather means the arrival of tender greens at farmers market, which makes spring the best time to make a mixed-green salad like this one. Modeled after misticanza, a Roman salad that's traditionally made from various wild greens, this salad is especially delicious when made with a combination of tender, peppery, herbal, and bitter greens. A splash of olive oil, some salt, and a few drops of lemon juice or vinegar is all you need to help those flavors shine.

Spring Vegetable Salad With Poached Egg and Crispy Bread Crumbs

Crisp-tender peas, snap peas, and asparagus star in this verdant salad that takes just about 30 minutes to make. Topped with soft-yolked poached eggs and buttery toasted bread crumbs, this simple dinner is a delicious way to celebrate the arrival of spring.

Snap Pea Salad With Creamy Yogurt-Mint Dressing

Though snap peas are delicious raw, a quick blanch helps set their vibrant green color and softens them slightly. Shocking the peas in ice water stops the cooking process, keeping them plump and snappy. A creamy dressing of yogurt and fresh mint brings it all together.

Warm Farro Salad With Asparagus, Peas, and Feta

This salad celebrates the transition from winter to spring by combining asparagus, snap peas, kale, and farro with a tangy vinaigrette, briny feta, and almonds.

Easy Fava Bean and Carrot Salad With Ricotta

Crunchy carrots and fava beans don't need much to shine. Here, we blanch them until they're just tender, then dress them in a bright vinaigrette of lemon juice, zest, and olive oil. Served with toast and a healthy dollop of good-quality ricotta, this salad makes a great side or light meal.

Peas and Carrots Salad With Goat Cheese and Almonds

Peas and carrots are a classic combination in dishes like shepherd's pie, chicken pot pie, and fried rice—but the vegetables are also delicious when turned into a salad. Creamy goat cheese brings a pleasant richness, toasted almonds provide crunch, and a drizzle of honey gives the salad a touch of sweetness.

Tiger Salad (Lao Hu Cai), à la Xi'an Famous Foods

Savory, refreshing, and tart, this dish is inspired by the lao hu cai—or "tiger vegetable salad"—served at Xi'an Famous Foods. It's easy to make: All you have to do is combine peeled celery ribs, crisp scallions, fresh cilantro, and a few slivers of hot chile pepper with a sweet-tart dressing of soy sauce, sesame oil, and rice vinegar.