Few people understand the power of a four-hour dinner. For most Americans, that probably sounds like a nightmare. But in Italy, it’s normal. Expected, even. You settle in. You open a bottle of wine. You talk, and eat, and talk some more. There’s no rush to clear the plates or get to dessert.

Growing up, I was lucky to be part of a family that liked to linger. We’d close restaurants, migrate from the dining room to the patio, and stay out so late the neighbors would gently remind us they had work in the morning. That way of eating—of being, really—has always felt more natural to me. And it’s exactly the kind of spirit cookbook author John Bersani captures in his new book, 20 Amici – 40 Ricette: Friends and Food from the Heart of Chianti.

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One of the most beautiful parts about living in New York City, other than the ultra-viral restaurants or expensive flavored lattes, is getting to visit historic food institutions that have been serving up iconic dishes for decades, even centuries. I had to switch it up this week and finally satisfy my craving for a rainbow cookie—we chose Venieros in the East Village as the spot for Snack Shop this week.

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